View Full Version : Floating Sub Floor
neolitic
November 5th, 2009, 12:46 PM
I have done a floating sub floor over a slab
before with ¾" T&G and 3/8" laid perpendicular
and screwed together.
There was even an article in FHB or JLC
a while back about it (though I can find it now).
This time though, all the situation allows
is Platon (¾), OSB (½), and ¼" birch underlay.
Screwed together with ¾" construction screws.
Cheap vinyl tile over every thing.
Only 1-1/8" clearance for steel entry door,
and no room to raise the door. :surrender:
I want the Platon for vapor barrier as well
as isolation from the slab, but I'm afraid of
ripples if I tapcon the OSB.
Any chance that it might work?
http://www.systemplaton.com/
WarnerConstInc.
November 5th, 2009, 12:57 PM
What about the squares of OSB with that stuff on the bottom?
I cant remember what it is called. I think that stuff floats.
Eieio
November 5th, 2009, 01:20 PM
Dricore
link: http://www.dricore.com/en/eIndex.aspx
neolitic
November 5th, 2009, 01:21 PM
What about the squares of OSB with that stuff on the bottom?
I cant remember what it is called. I think that stuff floats.
It is the same stuff.
I'm just buying a 7'-3"X65'-6" roll,
and 4X8 OSB.
It comes out @ 50¢ sft against @ $1.50 sft
for the 2'X2' DriCore tiles.
naptownCr
November 5th, 2009, 01:47 PM
how do you plan to secure the edges together?
that's also a lot of sheet to warp if it goes south on you.
The dricore is 2x2 pieces for a reason. If one warps it will not be as bad as an 8' sheet bowing up and slapping on the concrete when walked on.
I would spoend the money on the dricore or mill the osb to mimic it. ( I did not tell you to infringe on their patent)
neolitic
November 5th, 2009, 01:55 PM
how do you plan to secure the edges together?
that's also a lot of sheet to warp if it goes south on you.
The dricore is 2x2 pieces for a reason. If one warps it will not be as bad as an 8' sheet bowing up and slapping on the concrete when walked on.
I would spoend the money on the dricore or mill the osb to mimic it. ( I did not tell you to infringe on their patent)
:laugh4::laugh4:
That's a thought, and that's what
I'm after.
naptownCr
November 5th, 2009, 02:08 PM
OK let's assume you create something similar.
How long will it take to do the milling?
can you do it for less than a dollar a square foot?
Why not look into a laminate floor?
they also make floating floors in real wood veneers that can be installed below grade. ( assuming that is what is ultimately desired.)
naptownCr
November 5th, 2009, 02:10 PM
How big an area are we talkin here
neolitic
November 5th, 2009, 02:31 PM
How big an area are we talkin here
Between 360-400 sft.
neolitic
November 5th, 2009, 02:35 PM
It's a detached garage, slab on grade.
Going to be finished and heated as a studio.
The Platon is supposed to interlock
and form a vapor barrier.
naptownCr
November 5th, 2009, 04:19 PM
What's the finish floor supposed to be?
WarnerConstInc.
November 5th, 2009, 04:26 PM
I think I would spend more on the Dricore and have it put together quicker then fabbing your own up.
I guess you could roll the sheets out and then put some 3/4" advantech or even just grant t&g.
Depends how hard you want to work.
neolitic
November 5th, 2009, 05:42 PM
What's the finish floor supposed to be?
I'm telling her to do some peel'n stick,
but she may just put porch paint
on the Birch.
neolitic
November 5th, 2009, 05:53 PM
I think I would spend more on the Dricore and have it put together quicker then fabbing your own up.
I guess you could roll the sheets out and then put some 3/4" advantech or even just grant t&g.
Depends how hard you want to work.
¾" ply or Advantech would be too thick with
underlayment, it would have to have tile
installed directly on it.
After reading the DriCore instructions
they say you can tapcon those, so maybe
I shouldn't worry about tapcons with the OSB.
WarnerConstInc.
November 5th, 2009, 06:11 PM
If they pucker the osb a little, just sand it off.
neolitic
November 5th, 2009, 06:34 PM
If they pucker the osb a little, just sand it off.
I was more worried about compressing
the Platon and making the OSB wavy,
but if they do it with the 2X2's, it must
not be that compressible.
WarnerConstInc.
November 5th, 2009, 07:34 PM
I bet with the shape of the plastic, that stuff is pretty crush resistant.
neolitic
November 5th, 2009, 07:44 PM
Ooops.
I guess so, it says 1000 lbs per sft.
TulsaRemodeler
November 5th, 2009, 07:51 PM
I would do two cross layered of 1/2 plywood, liquid nails and screwed. No OSB, nothing to stop it from buckling. I love Adantech but not for this situation.
neolitic
November 5th, 2009, 09:02 PM
I would do two cross layered of 1/2 plywood, liquid nails and screwed. No OSB, nothing to stop it from buckling. I love Adantech but not for this situation.
Raises me up too far.
Platon is ¼", and I only have 1-1/8"
TulsaRemodeler
November 5th, 2009, 09:09 PM
Raises me up too far.
Platon is ¼", and I only have 1-1/8"
3/8ths plywood then or layers of luon, what are you options? Not too many.
Eieio
November 5th, 2009, 09:11 PM
Ok back up a bit.. do you need to raise the floor Neo?? or are you inserting the osb etc as a vapor barrier??
OGStilts
November 5th, 2009, 09:19 PM
Neo,
That article you are looking for was in this months FHB and it was for installing hardwood floors on concrete. It might be a bit of an overkill for your situation.
I've used the Dricore before and it was great to work with. Very easy to install. We laid carpet over it so I don't know how it would work for you but it worked great for our needs. If you are only talking $400 I think you will eat a good chunk of that up in savings for how quick the Dricore goes down.
neolitic
November 5th, 2009, 09:29 PM
Neo,
That article you are looking for was in this months FHB and it was for installing hardwood floors on concrete. It might be a bit of an overkill for your situation.
I've used the Dricore before and it was great to work with. Very easy to install. We laid carpet over it so I don't know how it would work for you but it worked great for our needs. If you are only talking $400 I think you will eat a good chunk of that up in savings for how quick the Dricore goes down.
Thanks for some first hand experience.
I was skeptical about attaching the underlayment
to so many little pieces.
(That isn't the article, it was months ago
and not about hardwood...almost what I
need to do here.)
Ok back up a bit.. do you need to raise the floor Neo?? or are you inserting the osb etc as a vapor barrier??
Trying to make the floor warmer, and
more comfortable to stand/work on.
neolitic
November 5th, 2009, 09:34 PM
3/8ths plywood then or layers of luon, what are you options? Not too many.
2 layers of 3/8 might be good.
3/8 fir is still easy to get here....
I think. :rolleyes3:
Eieio
November 5th, 2009, 09:36 PM
Paint the floor with thoroseal..
Put some visqueen over it.
lay down some cork padding and put the floor on top
neolitic
November 5th, 2009, 10:09 PM
Paint the floor with thoroseal..
Put some visqueen over it.
lay down some cork padding and put the floor on top
Cork is kind of pricey isn't it?
I don't think I want to tapcon
the top layer, too many concrete screws. :laugh4:
Eieio
November 5th, 2009, 10:12 PM
Cork is kind of pricey isn't it?
I don't think I want to tapcon
the top layer, too many concrete screws. :laugh4:
about 50 bucks for 100 sqft.. reduces that awful hallow sound under the hardwood floor and is a great insulator and water resistant membrane..
We use it under all our floating floors
Link: http://www.dwellsmart.com/Products/Cork/Corkshield-Cork-Underlayment
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