Basement Finishing, Design Ideas

[ChrWright]

With real estate values depressed, more and more families will be staying in their current homes longer. Finishing your basement is an efficient way to add more living space to your home. Here are some ideas, from basements I've finished in the Indianapolis area, to get the most out of the space you have.

Before we started, this Geist area basement was completely open, with no partition walls. Because the furnace and water heater were clustered around the stairs we chose to build a round enclosure, with removable panels for service:
http://wrightworks.net/images/new0063.JPG

Most basements have support columns for the steel beams which carry the weight of the floors above. These are often challenging for layout and finish. In this case, we framed and drywalled around them in a trapezoid shape. On one end of the basement, we attached tall storage cabinets to the shape which created a partition for a kid's play area. At the other end, we placed seating on either side of a mirrored shape for the theater seating area.

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Duct work is often a challenge when thinking about finishing your basement ceilings. In this case, we left the exposed floor joists and duct work as they were and sprayed everything in flat black paint for an industrial look. If you decide to go this route, be certain to use a good quality primer, that's rated for use on multiple materials: metal, plastic, wood, etc.

[ChrWright]

Inside the pass through cabinet between the two theater chairs is a cabinet holding a remote connection for video games.

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This bar was created from a combination of stock cabinets and custom elements.

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The steel beams overhead were painted in a yellow accent color. When planning your bar, here are some measurements to keep in mind:

Standard base cabinet counters are set at 36", and an elevated bar such as this should be 42" (these are finished heights). Bar stools are made to specifically fit these heights. Your knee area at the bar should be roughly 12"-14" deep.

[ChrWright]

If you're looking for utility over extravagance, here's a South side Indianapolis basement finish with an accessory kitchen which also serves as a craft area. The cabinets and counters were purchased at a local home center. The ceiling in this basement is a combination of drywall, and acoustical panels. Grid ceilings are an efficient way to deal with exposed ducts, pipes and wiring--as long as the lowest point is high enough. Usually the minimum desirable finished height is around 7'. Just remember when planning that you'll have to suspend your grid ceiling a little lower than the framing in order to get the panels in and out.

As before--counter height is 36", bar height is 42", and the bottom of the upper cabinets is at 54". Standard stock upper cabinets come in 6" height increments at either 30", 36", or 42" tall. You can see the cabinet over the sink steps up for head room. This shorter upper cabinet is 15" tall, and similar in size to what you might place over a refrigerator or wall mounted microwave.

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An inexpensive bar area:
http://wrightworks.net/images/100_0095.JPG

The brackets supporting the overhang of the bar top were purchased in the shelving area of a home center. The open end of the bar counter is curved slightly. While you can purchased pre-mitered laminate countertops off-the-shelf at your local home center for your base cabinets, the bar top will likely need to be special ordered.

To create this TV area, we took advantage of a step in the concrete foundation to recess a custom cabinet into the wall. These niches are common under porches and entryways. You can also use them to recess a fireplace--but ducting and gas line service may be an issue.

http://wrightworks.net/images/100_0091.JPG

[ChrWright]

Here you can see the duct work has been framed around and boxed in drywall, while the taller flat areas of the ceiling are acoustical grid.

The doors to the left lead to an unfinished mechanical area, the center door is the bath, and the last one is a game closet. The niche to the right is their home office.

http://wrightworks.net/images/100_0059_2.jpg

The wainscoting is a simple beaded plywood, with baseboard and chair rail trim applied over it. When finishing a plywood wainscot, it's important to select a chair rail with a stepped profile that will cover the top, exposed edge. If your chair rail is thick enough, you can create this step, or 'rabbit joint', yourself--however most stock chair rails at your local home center will be too thin for this.

Don't select a cap that's too short, as the proportions won't look right. Typical wainscot height is around 36". Most home centers carry pre-cut plywood wainscot material like this in 32"h x 48"l sheets. Hold the sheets off the floor an inch or so and let the baseboard cover the gap. (It's a good idea to hold all of your materials up from the floor, especially the drywall, in case your basement ever takes water.)

We applied this wainscoting with construction adhesive and finish nails. It's not critical to break the seams of these sheets on studs--just angle your finish nails in those areas to "grab" the drywall until the glue dries.

[ChrWright]

This South side Indianapolis basement finish was already partially framed when the homeowners moved in. We took advantage of a small recessed area by using it for the bar. Placement of your wet bar will often be determined by your plumbing access, and in this case the sewage pit for the basement bath was located on the other side of the partition wall to the left of the refrigerator--making it easy to route the drain for the sink.

The knee wall was built at 40 1/2" high to support the bar top (finished height at 42" with counter). It's preferable to have a wall for the end of the bar top to terminate into. In this case, we didn't have enough room behind the bar--so the knee wall and counter hang out past the adjacent wall and return back to it at 45 degrees.

http://wrightworks.net/images/110_1024.JPG
The duct work stepped down over this peninsula bar and we framed a bulkhead around it to mirror the shape of the counter, and hung pendant lights as task light and accents. Pendants should be set to roughly 30"-34" off of the counter, depending on their size and shape.

http://wrightworks.net/images/110_1039.JPG

This bar features a painted cabinets with a glaze finish and a multi-colored laminate counter. The backsplash tile was "dry-set" without grout. Accent walls that don't receive direct moisture can be set in this manner--provided the tile you're using is consistent in size and perfectly square. This backsplash is a multi-colored slate.

For glass doored cabinets with lighting, you will need to purchase glass shelves as well. In this case, we ordered the doors "prepped for glass" from the manufacturer, and then purchased the textured glass inserts and shelves from a local glass shop.

Space was tight here, even with the counter hanging out past the plane of the adjacent wall. There was only room for 12" deep base cabinets behind the knee wall (not shown). We used 30" high wall cabinets for this, and built them up on a toe kick base faced in thin ply ordered from the cabinet manufacturer.

[ChrWright]

This lighted feature was purely decorative:

http://wrightworks.net/images/110_1043.JPG

This arched shelf area is another recess in the foundation, under the entry:
http://wrightworks.net/images/110_1052.JPG

In this case, we were able to open both sides of the stairs at the bottom.
http://wrightworks.net/images/110_1044.JPG
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[fez-head]

Good stuff Chris :2thumbsup:

I would never have thought of priming/painting the floor joists and duct work flat black when there are low ceiling heights :builder2:

[ChrWright]

This was a very large Indianapolis basement renovation in an estate home, located in the Lake Clearwater area of Castelton. The decor was modern and you can see the ceiling was painted in flat black like the first one above.

This fireplace surround was originally brick--including the wood recess. We framed over the brick and faced in a dry-stacked multi-colored slate, with a copper laminate mantle and glass mosaic tiled over-mantle.

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Here you can see the support columns were box framed with applied panels. Two sides received panels of glass mosaic tile, and the other two received lucite panels with computer controlled lighting. The doors beyond are mounted to a sliding track with strips of copper laminate. They lead to an exercise area.

http://wrightworks.net/images/113_1346.JPG

[ChrWright]

Here you can see the lighted lucite panels on the support columns behind the bar. The bar top is a red onyx, and the floors are Amtico. The counters and supports behind the bar are stainless steel.

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If only we all had this much room. Here is a music stage and dance floor area:

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This is the entrance to the theater room. The stairs to the main floor are ebony stained with limestone nosing.

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[ChrWright]

The men's room:
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The women's:
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The exercise spa area in the same basement:
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It features a steam shower, shower, and bath/urinal area.

[ChrWright]

If your basement isn't a walk-out, the issue of egress becomes very important for fire safety. For living rooms, TV areas, and media rooms this isn't as much of an issue. But if any of your lower level rooms are to be bedrooms, you MUST plan for an egress window in each one. This serves as a second exit from the room in the event of a fire, and must open to a size that provides both an escape route for an occupant and an entrance for a firefighter wearing an air pack.

The International Residential Code specifies that the window sill of an egress window be no more than 44" above the floor, a minimum of 24" tall, and a minimum of 20" wide--with a net area of at least 5.7 square feet. For a below grade basement, this requires a window well like those shown here:

http://www.coloradocustomwelding.com/images/window-well-after.jpg
http://www.whiteblockcompany.com/images/projects/p_egressww1.jpg
http://www.korit.com/images/scapewel-topview.jpg

If your window well is more than 44" below grade, a ladder is required that projects at least 6" into the window well space. The size of the window well must be a minimum of 36" out from the basement wall, and at least 9 square feet overall.

Some municipalities have additional or more stringent requirements so it's a good idea to check with your local building department when planning your project.

[ChrWright]

If you have the room outside, a more decorative alternative to these small window wells is a terraced one like this:

http://www.rd.com/images/tfhimport/2001/Mar01_Terraced_Window_Well-image/20010301_Terraced_Window_Well-image_page003img001_size2.jpg


In any case, great care must be taken when planning and installing a window well to ensure ground water doesn't end up inside your basement.

http://www.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/obj/irc/images/ctus/ctu69_/figure6e.jpg

[RCP]

There is a company here in Utah that sells these decorative ones (http://www.windowellexpressions.com/products.shtml), I have seen them in some homes, they sure look better than the metal ones!

[ChrWright]

There is a company here in Utah that sells these decorative ones (http://www.windowellexpressions.com/products.shtml), I have seen them in some homes, they sure look better than the metal ones!

Definitely better than the corrugated metal ones. :2thumbsup:

We recently finished a basement which had a basketball court in it--with two egress window wells 8'+ high. :surrender: There was some DEEEEEEEEP digging to get the window wells installed.

[nEighter]

see what you produce is TOTALLY the style I am and have been into. I love the "tech" "industrial" "modern" "classic" with a splash of REAL color and natural elements.. bad ass all the way. LOVE it.

[Allrounder]

Wow Chris, those last pics look more like a nightclub than a basement. Amazing work!

[RCP]

It is amazing! Is that a "regular" home or some type of company retreat house?

[ChrWright]

It is amazing! Is that a "regular" home or some type of company retreat house?

The last home was owned by a real-estate developer. He was a bachelor. His company went bankrupt last year, and the home is now vacant and is currently for sale (and a great bargain I understand, if you're house hunting! :laugh3:)

Here's the rest of it:

http://wrightworks.net/Showcase-Six.htm

[J F]

Great stuff Chris (as always) :2thumbsup:

[macatawacab]

Very nice work Chris.

But one question, in the batchelor's home did you forget the stripper pole or was it painted black for aesthetic?:rolleyes3:

[ChrWright]

Very nice work Chris.

But one question, in the batchelor's home did you forget the stripper pole or was it painted black for aesthetic?:rolleyes3:


There were A LOT more stories to that house than I can share here in the open. That's more of a boardroom discussion... :laugh3:

[RCP]

The last home was owned by a real-estate developer. He was a bachelor. His company went bankrupt last year, and the home is now vacant and is currently for sale (and a great bargain I understand, if you're house hunting! :laugh3:)

Here's the rest of it:

http://wrightworks.net/Showcase-Six.htm

gee, wonder why he went bankrupt?:rolleyes3:

Chris, can't wait till you get your galleries redone! Looking at the photos the way they are now is a PITA, but worth it!:grin:

[ChrWright]

gee, wonder why he went bankrupt?:rolleyes3:

Chris, can't wait till you get your galleries redone! Looking at the photos the way they are now is a PITA, but worth it!:grin:

Sorry... :o

I'm workin' on it... :grin:

[bconley]

see what you produce is TOTALLY the style I am and have been into. I love the "tech" "industrial" "modern" "classic" with a splash of REAL color and natural elements.. bad ass all the way. LOVE it.

Chris,
I also love the contemporary style of your designs.
Is that something people come to you with, or are you working with designers who are "pushing" that style of design?
I'm looking to do more of that kind of work and am wondering how to go about soliciting it.
Bill

[orson]

If you need to cover up steel posts for decorative purposes but want to keep the footprint as small as possible we take 3/4 inch plywood and make a square box that fits almost tight against the post, assembling 2 sides at a time and then construction adhesive 2 adjacent sides of the 2 coner shaped pieces to the post and glue and nail them together.

Then you can trim and paint it or drywall over the plywood.

Great post(s) Chris

Was that stairway railing done before non-continuous railings were code compliant or does that municipality let that slide?

I hate making that type of railing continuous, looks pretty dumb.

[ChrWright]

Chris,
I also love the contemporary style of your designs.
Is that something people come to you with, or are you working with designers who are "pushing" that style of design?
I'm looking to do more of that kind of work and am wondering how to go about soliciting it.
Bill

Both modern basements are by the same designer, Matt Harris (www.mwharris.net). I met him about 9 years ago, and you'll see his name on the majority of the projects in my portfolio. I wouldn't say he "pushes" the style--as we've done a number of traditional projects together in old homes as well. I'm in a Midwestern city, and modern style is a very lucrative niche amidst the majority of folks doing more conservative/traditional work.

Finding a talented designer to work with can make a huge difference in your company growth and in getting to work with great finishes.

[bconley]

Thanks Chris,
Pushing was probably the wrong word, I do work with a few designers but just don't seem to doing that many modern contemporary projects.
I saw that you are marketing mid century modern on your facebook and wondering how much you are trying to get this kind of work, or if comes to you by chance and by the designers you work with.
There are a few great neighborhoods around here of that architecture just trying to figure out how best to get work of that type.

Thanks for sharing so much of your work and knowledge

[ChrWright]

In the beginning, it was all designer driven. But more and more I am being sought out because of the projects I have already done in that style.

[ChrWright]

Bump.

Would love to see some additional basement projects from others on our forum. This is a very popular project at the moment and a very highly searched keyword.

I highly recommend creating your own basement remodeling landing page, if you're a remodeler and don't already have one:

Indianapolis basement finish (http://www.wrightworks.net/remodeling-services-indianapolis/indianapolis-basement-finishing/)

Indianapolis basement remodeling photos (http://www.wrightworks.net/remodeling-photo/basement-remodeling-photos/)

[OGStilts]

Thanks, That's some good advice Chris. I just realized I didn't have a landing page for basement remodeling specifically so I quickly created one. I need to polish it up a bit but at least I can get it out there to start working on Chicago Basement Finishing (http://www.blankandbaker.com/chicago_basement_finishing.htm)

Here's a basement that was fun being a part of.

BEFORE:

http://www.blankandbaker.com/images/posts/LakeForestWineCellarBefore1.jpg

http://www.blankandbaker.com/images/posts/LakeForestWineCellarBefore2.jpg

http://www.blankandbaker.com/images/posts/LakeForestWineCellarBefore3.jpg

AFTER:

http://www.blankandbaker.com/images/posts/LakeForestWineCellarAfter1.jpg

[OGStilts]

http://www.blankandbaker.com/images/posts/LakeForestWineCellarAfter2.jpg

http://www.blankandbaker.com/images/posts/LakeForestWineCellarAfter3.jpg

http://www.blankandbaker.com/images/posts/LakeForestWineCellarAfter6.jpg

http://www.blankandbaker.com/images/posts/LakeForestWineCellarAfter8.jpg

[ChrWright]

That's some sweet paneling Chad, and an awesome wine room.

[Absolute Basements]

That's some sweet paneling Chad, and an awesome wine room.

+1.
Beautiful work.

[OGStilts]

Yeah that paneling was fun planning and laying that out. It was all built off site by the cabinet maker and installed by my carpenters. I think you can see it in the picture but I'll point out that the cabinet wall and the wall with the windows were curved walls so that made it a bit tricky. The owner elected to go with straight cabinets and panels instead of enduring the additional cost of adding that curvature to those walls.