View Full Version : Staining Cherry
JasonW
December 15th, 2009, 07:52 PM
I have no clue what I'm doing when it comes to choosing stain colors. I need to make a new coffee table and I'm making it out of cherry (I hate Oak). We have Antique furniture all over the house. My wife has the darker finished stuff in the living room and the lighter colored stuff in the dining room (in view from the living room). I'm told this matters for some reason:rolleyes3:
What is a good stain color to use on cherry to make it darker but not so dark you can't tell what the wood looks like? I really want it to look like cherry when it's done but I have to go darker and I'd like to keep a redish tone to it.
Clueless :surrender:
topcoat
December 15th, 2009, 07:55 PM
I have no clue what I'm doing when it comes to choosing stain colors. I need to make a new coffee table and I'm making it out of cherry (I hate Oak). We have Antique furniture all over the house. My wife has the darker finished stuff in the living room and the lighter colored stuff in the dining room (in view from the living room). I'm told this matters for some reason:rolleyes3:
What is a good stain color to use on cherry to make it darker but not so dark you can't tell what the wood looks like? I really want it to look like cherry when it's done but I have to go darker and I'd like to keep a redish tone to it.
Clueless :surrender:
Use some cutoffs to make stain samples for approval by the customer. This customer is to be treated with more thoroughness than any other. Start with Watco Danish oil to just deepen the cherry, then do another with Minwax red mahogany, then go to Bartleys Gel Stain in dark walnut. That will show the customer a decent range. When she says "I want it half way between this one and this one" come back and we will figure it out.
Allrounder
December 15th, 2009, 07:57 PM
If you give it a natural Danish oil or polyurethane finish, it will gradually darken over time to a beautiful dark brown-red. That's always my first choice with cherry. You never know exactly what you'll end up with down the line, but it will always be gorgeous.
If you need to stain it though, check out the Old Masters wiping stain or Zar wiping stain. Pick up some small cans from the paint store and practice on some scrap wood to make sure that it will give you the look that you want.
uwing
December 15th, 2009, 08:00 PM
Do you have a piece that resembles the color your looking for? or are you making a new color?
.
Get a damp rag and wet the surface, that will show you what it will look like if you just go with a clear/oil. You might want to think about shading, but this is applied by spraying, dries to fast so you cant wipe it. a good gel stain are good. I use Old Masters.
uwing
December 15th, 2009, 08:01 PM
Scott, MinWax??
JasonW
December 15th, 2009, 08:03 PM
topcoat, you're a very wise man.
I have an 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" piece left over from one of the legs I cut today. I put lemon oil on it and it enhances the grain beautifully and it also darkens the wood a bit more like poly would do. I usually treat most of my stained projects with oil before the poly.
Silvertree
December 15th, 2009, 08:03 PM
I have color chips for a cabinet line, I like the ciders or light brown stains on cherry.
Find a cabinet you like at go from there.
topcoat
December 15th, 2009, 08:05 PM
Jason
I agree with Allrounder about watco and poly. My kitchen cabinets are cherry and I did them about 8 years ago and they are just the way I like to see cherry. Sounds like she prefers darker cherry though.
topcoat
December 15th, 2009, 08:08 PM
Scott, MinWax??
We no longer use their poly but our stain kits are still minwax for general sampling and blending. We dont use it on our larger custom work. Usually Bartley or Murdochs.
topcoat
December 15th, 2009, 08:09 PM
topcoat, you're a very wise man.
I have an 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" piece left over from one of the legs I cut today. I put lemon oil on it and it enhances the grain beautifully and it also darkens the wood a bit more like poly would do. I usually treat most of my stained projects with oil before the poly.
Let me know if I need to drive down there for a consult. Your peace on the homefront may depend on it.
JasonW
December 15th, 2009, 08:10 PM
Jason
I agree with Allrounder about watco and poly. My kitchen cabinets are cherry and I did them about 8 years ago and they are just the way I like to see cherry. Sounds like she prefers darker cherry though.
Not too much darker than that, but yes a little darker. Are those counter tops Cherry or Maple?
topcoat
December 15th, 2009, 08:15 PM
Not too much darker than that, but yes a little darker. Are those counter tops Cherry or Maple?
Yes, cherry...native. There is some sapwood in there. I like my cherry diverse, mineral strains and all. I'll see if I can find a better shot.
topcoat
December 15th, 2009, 08:18 PM
Most of my pics have glare. This one shows the color a little better. So this is watco natural with about 5 coats of poly.
Leo G
December 15th, 2009, 08:31 PM
Doesn't really sound like I can give you much help there Jason. Most of the stains I use are professional stains that dry quick. I haven't used a MinWax or other off the shelf stain in years. For the color you seem to be looking for I would do a multi step process.
I would start by using a conditioner on the Cherry, it is a blotchy wood. The conditioner of choice for me is a stain base, just clear stain. Put it on, let it soak and wipe it off. Wait for about 20 minutes to an hour for it to dry. Then I would spray on a Cordovan dye, make it sort of deep, but not to dark. Probably two coats. The dye dries in minutes (actually seconds) because it is acetone based. After the dye aplication I would apply a brown stain. No need for any red, the Cordovan will take care of that. Then I would mix up a toner, color depending on where the color needed to go. After the toner I would put on two coats of lacquer. It would have nice depth and clarity.
Decoman
December 15th, 2009, 08:35 PM
Doesn't really sound like I can give you much help there Jason. Most of the stains I use are professional stains that dry quick. I haven't used a MinWax or other off the shelf stain in years. For the color you seem to be looking for I would do a multi step process.
I would start by using a conditioner on the Cherry, it is a blotchy wood. The conditioner of choice for me is a stain base, just clear stain. Put it on, let it soak and wipe it off. Wait for about 20 minutes to an hour for it to dry. Then I would spray on a Cordovan dye, make it sort of deep, but not to dark. Probably two coats. The dye dries in minutes (actually seconds) because it is acetone based. After the dye aplication I would apply a brown stain. No need for any red, the Cordovan will take care of that. Then I would mix up a toner, color depending on where the color needed to go. After the toner I would put on two coats of lacquer. It would have nice depth and clarity.
Thats a nice process you got there.... I just started monkey with acetone stains a few yrs ago. don't have the op to use them much tho intriguing for sure.
uwing
December 15th, 2009, 08:40 PM
Doesn't really sound like I can give you much help there Jason. Most of the stains I use are professional stains that dry quick. I haven't used a MinWax or other off the shelf stain in years. For the color you seem to be looking for I would do a multi step process.
I would start by using a conditioner on the Cherry, it is a blotchy wood. The conditioner of choice for me is a stain base, just clear stain. Put it on, let it soak and wipe it off. Wait for about 20 minutes to an hour for it to dry. Then I would spray on a Cordovan dye, make it sort of deep, but not to dark. Probably two coats. The dye dries in minutes (actually seconds) because it is acetone based. After the dye aplication I would apply a brown stain. No need for any red, the Cordovan will take care of that. Then I would mix up a toner, color depending on where the color needed to go. After the toner I would put on two coats of lacquer. It would have nice depth and clarity.
acetone are the bomb, that what i ment by shading, The more I use a acetone based stain, the more I hate the wiping stains.
ArmchairDIY
December 15th, 2009, 09:15 PM
About a tablespoon of lye in a quart of water gives Cherry a really nice color and no blotching. I know a little old school, but it does work. It may be a little lighter than what your looking for though.
bconley
December 15th, 2009, 09:22 PM
Cherry will darken up no matter what finish you use keep that in mind and the conditioner like others mentioned
Leo G
December 16th, 2009, 10:35 PM
You get started on this yet Jason?
JasonW
December 16th, 2009, 11:41 PM
You get started on this yet Jason?
Just chopping up the parts right now. Got the legs done and put the tappers on them. The rest of the wood is still in the rack.
Leo G
December 17th, 2009, 07:41 AM
I see you are thinking way ahead then.
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