Natural edge Basswood slab floor/ poured epoxy?

[ArmchairDIY]

I have a customer that wants to use some 3/4" natural edge basswood slabs with the bark left on the edges for a flooring. They are between 12"- 14" wide. I kiln dried them down to about 5% and 95% of the bark has remained very solid.
The floor is to be placed over concrete. The area is small about 130 SQ'.

My current thought is to seal the concrete with epoxy to stop moisture.
Apply polyurethane to the planks sealing them to minimize air bubbles.
Then use wood flooring adhesive to glue down the planks.
Fill the area between the planks with a thin layer of pigmented epoxy to cover the concrete from view.
Then a second pour of clear epoxy to near the surface of the planks.
A third pour of uv resistant clear epoxy over the entire surface.

Has anyone here done anything similar? Or have any thought about my plans?

It is going to be a very expensive floor and I want to address any possible problems before I get started. So I would like to hear your thoughts, thanks

[Eieio]

I would put down Dri core as a subfloor first


http://www.dricore.com/en/eIndex.aspx

[ArmchairDIY]

Thanks, I would like to use dricore, but I have floor height issues to contend with. The room the floor will be installed in is currently 3\4" lower than the rest of the house and I have 3|4" floor. The transition takes place at a 6' set of french doors.

That is why I was contemplating using the epoxy as a vapor barrier instead of something like dricore.

[naptownCr]

I agree with the dricore
However I question the poly before the epoxy.
I understand also the problem with outgassing and creating bubbles in the epoxy however a way around that is to warm the material up to say 80 degrees apply a coat of epoxy and set to cure in a cooler area. I found that the bubbles are caused by the material warming up and expanding the air within the pores of the wood and working into the finish. (learned that one the hard way)
The biggest problem is going to be timing. As epoxy will adhere without sanding or scrubbing if the next coat is applied within 3 days before it completely cures. The next issue is Amine blush which is a wax like substance that floats to the top of a coat of epoxy and will need to be removed prior to the next coat being applied. MAS brand epoxy aparently does not have this issue but West system does and will need to be scrubbed with soap and water then sandede between coats.
If I were doing this project I would lay out and seal the backs of all boards with 10 mil of epoxy, install on the dricore do any sanding etc you need to do and warm the room up good and hot to make sure the floor is warm and pour the epoxy. Turn off the heat and let it cool down at least 20 degrees to cure.

[Eieio]

Waterproof the slab. I'd use Thoroseal

Lay down some 3 mil plastic over the entire concrete slab go up the walls 3"

Cork padding would be ideal over the plastic

Then lay the planks

[ArmchairDIY]

Thanks very much naptown.
Amine blush is a term and situation I was not aware of.
You are correct, the poly coat was my solution for the outgassing problem. I have had minor outgassing problems in the past. (With wood and epoxy I mean..lol)
Looks like I'm loosing the dricore argument here 2-1

[Eieio]

Info on thoroseal.. this stuff is bulletproof if applied properly

http://www.thoroproducts.com/products_waterproofing.htm

[ArmchairDIY]

Waterproof the slab. I'd use Thoroseal

Lay down some 3 mil plastic over the entire concrete slab go up the walls 3"

Cork padding would be ideal over the plastic

Then lay the planks

I had thought of doing something alone those lines as well.

I have been kicking this around in my head for several months now and the start date is approaching so I need to make up my mind what the best approach is.

I sure appreciate you guys brainstorming this one with me.

[naptownCr]

2 more things to add to my original reply
The Dricore will be more than worth the effort and creating a reducer at the door is no big deal. You will have far fewer potential issues with the floor.
This will allow you to back seal the boards with poly and use a flooring glue to set them which is much cheaper than epoxy. Just make sure you vent the dricore per their instructions.
Check compatability of the various materials with the manufacturers ( epoxy, poly, adhesive) to make sure they will work with each other.
I see you learned the hard way about outgassing and epoxy too. I learned about it on a tiller which was small but this floor could be a nightmare.
Seriously check into the MAS epoxy. I have heard it is as good as the WEST but does not require scrubbing between coats.
We want pics when done!
PS I hope your client doesn't wear spike heels in the house or that floor will be dented to shizz in no time.

[naptownCr]

Waterproof the slab. I'd use Thoroseal

Lay down some 3 mil plastic over the entire concrete slab go up the walls 3"

Cork padding would be ideal over the plastic

Then lay the planks

I don't think this is a floating floor and 3 mil poly is not a vapor barrier it will need to be minimum of 4 mil and preferably 6 mil.
The poly and cork will preclude a glue down system.

[Eieio]

I don't think this is a floating floor and 3 mil poly is not a vapor barrier it will need to be minimum of 4 mil and preferably 6 mil.
The poly and cork will preclude a glue down system.

Yes 4 mil or better if he glues down that hardwood he will be pulling it back up in 6 months..

[ArmchairDIY]

I will look as MAS epoxy.
I have spoken with Progressive Epoxy Polymers and plan to talk with Paul more in depth after New Years. I know he has some more ideas in mind as well.

I had considered a 12-15 mil poly to increase the perm rating then two layers of 1/8 Masonite with staggered joints then gluing down to that. But I was not real comfortable with that whole plan and put it on the back burner for now.

Product compatibility has been a big concern of mine. I need to narrow down my options then explore that further.

My client is aware that the floor will mark and scratch if not treated with care and she also understands it is a bit experimental. This is a test run of sorts to determine if it is feasible to use it in a few larger projects.

There will be lots of photos and possibly a magazine article as well, but only if it's well planned and executed.

[naptownCr]

Yes 4 mil or better if he glues down that hardwood he will be pulling it back up in 6 months..

I meant gluing it to a Dricore base.
The 6 mil poly makes sense if Dricore is used (extra Insurance)

One question no one has asked
Is this floor above or below grade?

[Eieio]

I meant gluing it to a Dricore base.
The 6 mil poly makes sense if Dricore is used (extra Insurance)

One question no one has asked
Is this floor above or below grade?

Concrete slab so I assumed below grade. but you know what happens when you assume

[ArmchairDIY]

The floor is on grade with forced air heat, not in the slab. The concrete has cured for about 5 months. It was in place prior to this floor idea being brought up and prior to me becoming involved in the projects details.
I don't have the proper testing equipment to do an accurate moisture test of the concrete. But I did do the old school tape poly down to the floor and I have seen no condensation.

[naptownCr]

The floor is on grade with forced air heat, not in the slab. The concrete has cured for about 5 months. It was in place prior to this floor idea being brought up and prior to me becoming involved in the projects details.
I don't have the proper testing equipment to do an accurate moisture test of the concrete. But I did do the old school tape poly down to the floor and I have seen no condensation.

This means that there is a vapor barrier in place.
I am truly impressed about the tape and poly test. So few know about this.

[Leo G]

Basswood?



BASSWOOD??


As a floor?????!!

Are you kidding me?

Basswood is softer than white pine. It'll be trashed in under a years time.

[naptownCr]

Leo
read the last line of post #9

[ArmchairDIY]

I know Leo, Basswood was not not my choice. My client has heard months worth of my objections to this phase of the project.

I don't know that it's any softer than white pine, but at any rate it's not hard enough to hold up on my own personal floor.

This project is more or less centered around aesthetics not function. It's the "look" not the floor that is important. That can be said about the vast majority of what I work on. Occasionally used vacation homes. Making things look "rustic" takes a lot of time, and involves a lot of compromises.

[Leo G]

And yer point is?

[naptownCr]

I agree you're gonna get rustic all right

[Leo G]

It'll be rustic in no time.

[ArmchairDIY]

Leo
read the last line of post #9

Also see my signature line....lol

[Leo G]

Paper would be harder than basswood in the same thickness.

[NEPS]

Are you getting alot of moisture or water from the concrete? If you are a epoxy could be more trouble than you bargained for.

I wouldnt add any type of epoxy if you are glueing the boards down. I could see a reaction with the glue and the epoxy causeing lifting and a big mess. If you are just looking to add a color to the concrete you could just use a stain to the color desired. Also your not going to find a decent epoxy that will accept a tint to your desired color.

[ArmchairDIY]

And yer point is?

I do mostly custom work. As long as it does not create a safety or structural issue my customers get what they ask for. Often times cost, maintenance and longevity are not factors they have any concern about. They want unique, something the neighbor does not have.
I inform them of the negative aspects of what they are asking for. If they make an informed decision to proceed and are willing to pay, then I get to try something new and interesting and get paid for it. They get something unique that they can show off to their friends. A happy client and money in the my bank account, a win win situation as I see it.

Thats my point.

[Eieio]

did you install the floor yet?

[ArmchairDIY]

did you install the floor yet?

No not yet. They are here on vacation. Home owners and deadly fumes are a combination best avoided if at all possible....lol

I'm spoiled, in all of 2009 we worked a grand total of 1 1/2 days in an occupied home.

We will be starting the floor in a few weeks when they are gone.