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Leo G
February 13th, 2010, 01:44 PM
Finally got around to taking some pics of the my latest Cherry Kitchen. Still have crown and some extras to go.

http://fototime.com/0BC62BA7F279788/orig.jpg

http://fototime.com/53CF98C983877A0/orig.jpg

http://fototime.com/AAC986902D014E3/orig.jpg

http://fototime.com/6784FF7BA8C5C47/orig.jpg

Leo G
February 13th, 2010, 01:45 PM
http://fototime.com/1D0CF2E5B07CD75/orig.jpg

The extras include that corner cabinet, cover the beam with Cherry, and two open shelf corner cabinets.

naptownCr
February 13th, 2010, 01:53 PM
Nice looking kitchen Leo:2thumbsup:
Does the top rail on the wall cabinets show the same reveal as the other rails and stiles after the crown ins installed?

I particularly like the fact that you built these in combination units so the reveals around the doors don't show the double stile. This is a very nice touch on an inset door cabinet in perticular. Not much difference on a full overlay. How much help did it take to hang the walls, they weren't exactly bite size peices?

Silvertree
February 13th, 2010, 01:56 PM
Slant raised panel, my favorite.
No veneer raised panels for you I see.

Leo G
February 13th, 2010, 01:58 PM
No, it is bigger. In this case, because the ceiling is all over the place, we are dropping the crown down so we can keep a constant reveal on the top rail. In my usual installs the top rail will show 3". In this particular case it will show about 2 1/2".

I don't like them to be the same. Doesn't look right in my book. Is that what you want in your kitchen, equal all the way around?

Leo G
February 13th, 2010, 02:01 PM
Slant raised panel, my favorite.
No veneer raised panels for you I see.

Slant raise panel??? :laugh4: Never heard it called that before.

I call it a beveled raised panel. It is pretty much my standard.

Most of the companies use a 1" bevel and a 1/4" thumbnail on the stiles and rails. My bevel is 1 1/4" and my thumbnail is 3/8".

I got this profile when I was doing a lot of 18th century work. It was very common back then.


All solid wood and plywood for the carcasses. Don't tell Jimmy Cabinet.

Silvertree
February 13th, 2010, 02:31 PM
I started calling it a slant for customers and it just stuck.
I do like the longer bevel, very nice:2thumbsup:

WarnerConstInc.
February 13th, 2010, 02:39 PM
Those big sections gots to be heavy?

Did my favorite friend of yours help you install?

Leo G
February 13th, 2010, 02:50 PM
Yes he did. Because the wall was so insanely bowed we put the microwave cabinet and the corner cabinet together on the ground and lifted it as a complete unit. The lowers were in already and we made a couple of boxes of the correct height to rest the cabinets on. We did all the scribing in place, only had to lift it once.

I did this job in two parts, the lowers and the uppers. They didn't have a kitchen and I'd thought I'd be nice. I did the lowers so they could get the countertops templated and in place so they could get the stove, dish washer and sink in there so they could have a working kitchen. It took me another week to put the uppers together and finish them. Went to install them and I couldn't believe there were no countertops. They hadn't even picked out the color or the company to get them from, let alone have the guy come by to template them. I was pissed.

I broke the work up in two parts which means all my setups had to be done twice. But they would never know. I kept my calm. Now they are on vacation and the countertops still haven't been picked out. WTF!

WarnerConstInc.
February 13th, 2010, 02:56 PM
See how it is? We go out of our way to make it easier on people and they just don't care.

At the rate they are going they won't have counters for another month!!

I like the tile pattern, not so much the tile though.

Leo G
February 13th, 2010, 03:02 PM
Standard equal stagger pattern. The floor is out by at least a 1/2" over the kitchen. The stove cabinets are now about 1/2" shorter than they use to be. The boat cabinet is full height, everything else shrinks as it goes down the line. Pain in the ass install.

WarnerConstInc.
February 13th, 2010, 03:12 PM
Standard equal stagger pattern. The floor is out by at least a 1/2" over the kitchen. The stove cabinets are now about 1/2" shorter than they use to be. The boat cabinet is full height, everything else shrinks as it goes down the line. Pain in the ass install.

I like the pattern,yes it is simple but, that is some ugly tile.

Better find the low spot and start from there.

Leo G
February 13th, 2010, 03:13 PM
Th last cabinet in the run didn't have a normal toekick and the sides went down to the floor. So I was forced to start there. I'm not going to have the cabinet look like it is floating above the floor.

ChrWright
February 13th, 2010, 03:31 PM
Looks nice Leo. Anything special for the beam wrap?

Leo G
February 13th, 2010, 03:49 PM
nothing super special. I suggested some paneling on the bottom and flat board stock on the sides with the crown going across it. I did a few drawings but they wanted flat on all 3 sides. I showed him some edge detailing and we decided on a shadow box detail with coves.

http://fototime.com/4CE5407E88100D8/standard.jpg

PA Woodbutcher
February 13th, 2010, 05:12 PM
Nice layout and clean install.:2thumbsup:

Why the flat panel drawers?

Leo G
February 13th, 2010, 05:17 PM
Not enough room for my panel.

The drawer fronts are 5 1/16" tall, my panel bevels are 1 1/4" so that is already 2 1/2", that leaves 2 1/2" for the flat on the panel and two rails. I won't make a panel with a flat less than the width of the bevel. So that means the panel would need to be 3 3/4". Now that leaves 1 1/4" left to divide by the two rails. Not going to happen, it would look stupid.

PA Woodbutcher
February 13th, 2010, 05:28 PM
Not enough room for my panel.

The drawer fronts are 5 1/16" tall, my panel bevels are 1 1/4" so that is already 2 1/2", that leaves 2 1/2" for the flat on the panel and two rails. I won't make a panel with a flat less than the width of the bevel. So that means the panel would need to be 3 3/4". Now that leaves 1 1/4" left to divide by the two rails. Not going to happen, it would look stupid.

:2thumbsup:

Craig Feuerzeig
February 14th, 2010, 08:42 AM
Nice and clean. With no scribe left of the fridge... do you have room to squeak the base molding in there?

Can you tell I've been bitten by that one before? :o

Leo G
February 14th, 2010, 09:46 AM
Gets another cabinet there.

http://fototime.com/DAE05F4C2ABE985/orig.jpg

http://fototime.com/B4118AD23B246F0/orig.jpg

Everything had a 1/2" scribe. The cabinets near the door needed a 1 1/4" scribe. These walls are soooo "F'd" up.

Leo G
February 14th, 2010, 09:48 AM
Oh, I see what you mean. The refrigerator is recessed into the wall about 13". That is how the hole is set up. It is a 36" wide refrigerator with a 37 1/4" wide hole. I couldn't put a stile on that side if I wanted to.

The corner cabinet goes on the right side of the cabinet between the radiator

Craig Feuerzeig
February 14th, 2010, 10:08 AM
As I said I've been bitten before... You have 1 1/4" of play, if the fridge is pushed all the way to the right of the opening. If your base molding is thicker than that, the pullout freezer door wouldn't open. I worked in alot of older homes where that was the case.

In this case the return wall on the left has a door opening... if that were a solid wall the door wouldn't swing 90 degrees without the handle hitting the wall... and the pull-out shelves wouldn't pull out.

I've screwed that one up before too.:grin:

Leo G
February 14th, 2010, 10:14 AM
There should be enough room for a baseboard and the drawer to pull out. If not, it can be returned on itself on the end of the wall and a smaller molding to cover the wall glop to the refrigerator. Not my fault they wanted a big refridge in a small hole.

And another good thing, I have nothing to do with the baseboard.

neolitic
February 14th, 2010, 11:19 AM
Is this where the refrigerator-corner-shelf-thingy goes?

Leo G
February 14th, 2010, 11:42 AM
Yes, to the right of the fridge cabinet between the radiator.