Wavy Glass Source?

[Bodger]

So it looks like I have a rustic cabinet to build with a couple of doors in it.

The HO wants wavy glass in the doors. Anybody have a source for it?

I Googled it, but didn't see much except for vintage stuff.

[Leo G]

Yep.................

[naptownCr]

Google antique glass or stained glass
there shoulb be a glass shop that will' be able to provide
and antique looking glass locally

[Silvertree]

Most glass shops have sources.
I used to get my glass from a shop in LA.

[Leo G]

http://www.middlefieldglass.com/true1.htm

[Bodger]

Thanks. I think I'll call Malibu Glass on Monday. Sounds like it's out there to be had, which from Google searches I was beginning to doubt.

[neolitic]

Thanks. I think I'll call Malibu Glass on Monday. Sounds like it's out there to be had, which from Google searches I was beginning to doubt.

Got to know the secret hand shake. :laugh4:

[Bodger]

Got to know the secret hand shake. :laugh4:

Everything I found said it was vintage, expensive, and it's really hard to cut without breaking it. I'll probably lose my shorts on this goofy cabinet but I'm not turning anything down right now.

Of course, they want it stained and that distressed aged look. I'll probably have to haul out the log chains and give it a good beatin'.

[naptownCr]

here's a trick for you.
Take a smooth plane, grind a slight convex curve to the Iron and plane your nice flat wood with it.
It will give the wood a hand planed look to it and make it look old. Then break out the chains and beat it to death then finish.

[Leo G]

Oh don't even get me started with hand planing. I have planed 1000 of bd ft. Probably 10's of thousands. It is a very unique look. I like it. But there is a lot more to it than just swishing the plane over the wood. Because the wood has grain you need to be able to read the wood. You have to learn which way it flows and when to start and stop the plane. You need to know how to sharpen a plane, often. Most of what I started planing was pine. Pretty easy with a sharp plane. Unless you get some knarly grained wood. Then I switched to Poplar because it was harder and cheaper. That is when I learned to keep a very sharp plane. You needed it. I was trying to to get a 1 3/4" wide plane mark from a 2" knife.

Bit it looks good.

[naptownCr]

Oh don't even get me started with hand planing. I have planed 1000 of bd ft. Probably 10's of thousands. It is a very unique look. I like it. But there is a lot more to it than just swishing the plane over the wood. Because the wood has grain you need to be able to read the wood. You have to learn which way it flows and when to start and stop the plane. You need to know how to sharpen a plane, often. Most of what I started planing was pine. Pretty easy with a sharp plane. Unless you get some knarly grained wood. Then I switched to Poplar because it was harder and cheaper. That is when I learned to keep a very sharp plane. You needed it. I was trying to to get a 1 3/4" wide plane mark from a 2" knife.

Bit it looks good.

that piece looked like pine
Just trying to give it that antique patina of hand planed wood.
It is a PITA but IMO worth the effort.
When Wifey looks at antiques particularly ones she thinks are primitive pieces that is the first thing I look for. In particular the hidden pieces where a reproduction may slack off and use newer machine planed wood.

[Bodger]

Yeah, it's going to have to be pine.
I've got a low angle Lie Nielsen block plane and a Tormek wheel to sharpen that thing to where it will shave the hair off your hand.

I might give that try. Seems like low angle would be a plus, might reduce tear-out on figured grain.

I haven't built anything like this in several years. It will be interesting.

[WarnerConstInc.]

I have tons of old window sashes with the original wavy glass.

[Leo G]

Yeah, it's going to have to be pine.
I've got a low angle Lie Nielsen block plane and a Tormek wheel to sharpen that thing to where it will shave the hair off your hand.

I might give that try. Seems like low angle would be a plus, might reduce tear-out on figured grain.

I haven't built anything like this in several years. It will be interesting.

Low angle will rip out more than a high angle. As you get higher and higher of an angle it becomes more of a scraping action than a cutting action. The low angle is an aggressive plane meant to take off a lot of stock.

[Bodger]

Low angle will rip out more than a high angle. As you get higher and higher of an angle it becomes more of a scraping action than a cutting action. The low angle is an aggressive plane meant to take off a lot of stock.

I should have known that.
Makes sense. Low angle is what they used to use on end grain butcher blocks.

I might just chain whip this thing and put in a few fake worm holes with a 4d finish nail.

[Leo G]

When I was working for a shop decades ago (or was it centuries), I would make beautiful pcs of woodwork and then have to beat them with chains, files, bags of rocks, nails and all the other sort of things to make it look older. Broke my wittle heart.

[Bodger]

When I was working for a shop decades ago (or was it centuries), I would make beautiful pcs of woodwork and then have to beat them with chains, files, bags of rocks, nails and all the other sort of things to make it look older. Broke my wittle heart.


Yeah, that distressed thing is a PITA. I had someone a while ago who wanted the wormwood look. I took about 20 4d nails and put them through a piece of wood and snipped the chisel points off. Used that to give it the wormy look. BFD.