Couple of small hutches.

[Leo G]

In the last couple of days I made two small hutches. A pair of doors on the lower section and adjustable shelving on the upper section. The hutch is 36" wide and 88" tall to the top of the crown. Lower section is 20" deep and the upper is 12" deep. It is a paint grade unit. Going to be covered with a pigmented semi gloss lacquer. The majority of the solid wood is maple. A mix of soft and hard. The FF's and countertop are soft Maple and the door frames are hard Maple. The panels are MDF, the crown is Poplar. The cases are made from Classic Core (http://www.columbiaforestproducts.com/Products.aspx/ClassicCore) by Columbia Plywood. Myself, I prefer Norbord FX-P (http://www.packardforestproducts.com/pdf/FX_FX-P_Brochure.pdf). I think it is more stable. But I had this in stock. The back is made from Birch plywood.

Here's a crappy picture from my phone.

http://fototime.com/2504BC99A4EEEC4/orig.jpg

[naptownCr]

Very nice Leo
do the solar panels mount in the back?:rolleyes3::grin:

[Leo G]

On the top. Hidden by the crown.:mad2:

[naptownCr]

:2thumbsup::2thumbsup::grin:On the top. Hidden by the crown.:mad2:

[Leo G]

The 3PH inverters are under the toe kicks. That's why they are so tall. :laugh3:

[naptownCr]

Actually they mount behind the panels
Did you get the enlighten monitering with those?

[Leo G]

So to speak. I went with the trans mind power transfer unit. If any glitches occur it will transplant a thought through osmosis and relay the pertinent information.

[PA Woodbutcher]

I originally thought the doors in the bottom looked too short, bit then I remembered how you detest overlays:laugh3:

Are the upper portions of them going to be open or are you using glass doors.

And for real why are the toe kicks so high if your not using and overlay?

[Leo G]

Not my design. This is for a GC I work for and this is what they wanted. I suspect there will be a 5 1/4" baseboard being wrapped around the cabinets, they are built ins. Uppers are going to be open, just shelves with a 1 1/4" front with a cove on the front bottom edge. The cabinet is made square, so if doors are needed they can be installed without a problem.

I would consider these to be more of a bookcase than a hutch, but the GC sold them as a hutch and darn it, that's what I'm call'n em.

[Bodger]

Leo, what type of connection did you use to affix the tops to the lower units?

ETA: never mind, I looked again, appears that the sides are one piece and that molding wraps around.

If it didn't, and the tops were inset, what would be the connection there?

[Leo G]

The tops are screwed from underneath to the upper cabinet. The back of the countertop has a stop rabbet for the back to slip into.

[Bodger]

1/2" ply backs?

[Leo G]

Yep. The 1/4" play is now 5mm which is 3/16". It is too thin for me.

Plus I broke it down. If you use 1/4" backs you need to use 3/4" stretchers so you have a nailing/screwing surface to attach it to the wall. This means you need to cut the stretchers and size them to fit. You need to edge band one edge. You need to sand it, pocket hole it and attach it. Then you need to cut the 1/4" back and attach it. That takes 20 minutes per cabinet. So $20.

Now, you use 1/2" instead. You cut the back to size and install it. You are done. It is ridged/strong enough to put a screw through it and hang it on the wall with zero fear of it falling down. The 1/2" sheet is about $20 more then the 1/4". So if you are doing one cabinet it may be a push on cost. But how about on a kitchen with 15 cabinets. 15 x 20 minutes adds up to a lot of cash.

[Bodger]

Yep. The 1/4" play is now 5mm which is 3/16". It is too thin for me.

Plus I broke it down. If you use 1/4" backs you need to use 3/4" stretchers so you have a nailing/screwing surface to attach it to the wall. This means you need to cut the stretchers and size them to fit. You need to edge band one edge. You need to sand it, pocket hole it and attach it. Then you need to cut the 1/4" back and attach it. That takes 20 minutes per cabinet. So $20.

Now, you use 1/2" instead. You cut the back to size and install it. You are done. It is ridged/strong enough to put a screw through it and hang it on the wall with zero fear of it falling down. The 1/2" sheet is about $20 more then the 1/4". So if you are doing one cabinet it may be a push on cost. But how about on a kitchen with 15 cabinets. 15 x 20 minutes adds up to a lot of cash.


Also, you see that stretcher and I think cabinets look cleaner without it. Not much of a concern with cabinets that have solid doors, but glass cabs or open, that stretcher rides at the top.

[Leo G]

Not much of a concern with cabinets that have solid doors, but glass cabs or open, that stretcher rides at the top.

And when you have upper kitchen cabinets there is a stretcher on the bottom of the cabinet too which means you loose lower deck space. 3/4" is a lot of space to lose in a 12" deep cabinet.

[Leo G]

OK, here they are. Semi Gloss White. Never got the pictures of the shelves. Darn.

http://fototime.com/51935BC250928E6/orig.jpg

http://fototime.com/167CFBBBBEF90EA/orig.jpg

http://fototime.com/E274849FC8E3E4E/orig.jpg

http://fototime.com/04845C61B70797E/orig.jpg

[nEighter]

looks damn good. what paint was used?

[Splinter]

Was there any plan to keep the thin crack line from forming where the crown meets the box? Glue on the bottom edge of the crown perhaps?

[Leo G]

I was actually disappointed that my finisher didn't put a line of caulk there before painting them. No worries about cracking, not a sealed joint anyway. The moldings are glued n the cabinet and nailed with 23ga pins.

The paint is Pigmented ML Campbell's Resistant Conversion Varnish covered in a clear (MLC Krystal)