The Boat Job

[Leo G]

Gonna revamp my landlords boat it is a Sea Ray 300 Sundancer. The inside and outside tables are made of particle board with a laminate on them. The outside one will be changed to QS White Oak with a medium brown stain on it, the inside table will be natural Cherry. All the cabinets in the cabin will be veneered with Cherry and clear coated with a semi gloss conversion lacquer. The cabin floor is carpet and will be changed out to a laminate floor (his choice). The deck and diving areas will be covered with a marine grade plywood that is Teak and Holly in a strip pattern to resemble the old Teak and caulk layouts they had on boats. I redid the gauge cluster, use to be a black plastic, now it is veneered with Cherry and stained to match the steering wheel. I re-did the steering wheel. Stripped the damaged plastic finish off of it and put an exterior grade water base poly carbonate urethane on it. I use this on my exterior doors.

The doors on the cabinets are 1/2" 7 ply plywood with a white gloss phenolic layer on the show side and a thinner, duller version on the backside. I have covered these with Cherry veneer and coated them. I still have to cover the cabinet surfaces with the veneer. That should be real fun. Curves and tight quarters. Here are some progress shots.

http://fototime.com/DC9CACAC084E467/standard.jpg

http://fototime.com/D79F4B3AF5E4F3D/standard.jpg

http://fototime.com/4B6D550F504A40C/standard.jpg

http://fototime.com/1394E2864F71449/standard.jpg

[Leo G]

http://fototime.com/10CF13CF6C2AAF0/standard.jpg

http://fototime.com/983FCCFE69D4E52/standard.jpg

Here is one of the cabin cabinet doors, before:
http://fototime.com/C19F38E245F7613/standard.jpg

I took off the white edgeband and replaced with Cherry veneer:
http://fototime.com/036571E31DEFF7D/standard.jpg

[Leo G]

Then I sanded the glossy surface off with 100 grit, wiped down with DNA:
http://fototime.com/66A4F8D756D709C/standard.jpg

Then using a pre glued veneer I applied the Cherry:
http://fototime.com/70EC083BE39B2D9/standard.jpg

Then using a razor blade I punched the starter holes for routing the existing Euro hinge holes and the knob hole:
http://fototime.com/CE22BF7D9D034BE/standard.jpg

Routing complete:
http://fototime.com/2312A663941DBC9/standard.jpg

[Leo G]

The knobs are kind of neat. The are flush to the surface and you push them and they pop out and you have an nice shaped handle. I took these and ground the face flat and veneered them. Before, sanded face, veneered:

http://fototime.com/14AA179E9534A78/standard.jpg

http://fototime.com/518CBDBF0D946DE/standard.jpg

http://fototime.com/812D620E61DA89D/standard.jpg

[Greg from K/W]

Wow that is going to be really sharp. Keep the pics coming ok?

[WarnerConstInc.]

That thing must be hard to tow with that trailer!!

[Greg from K/W]

I was wondering that too. Why wasn't it in the water while you where working on it> You could have done some fishing between glue ups.

[Leo G]

The dock company comes and gets it for him.

[Leo G]

The motors were being serviced. All that needed to be done was gasket change outs. They were in good condition. It costs more to store it down there then to have it towed up here and stored for the winter. Plus, it makes every ones job easy having it right here to work on. Hell, I'm bitching it isn't in my shop and I have to walk 45 seconds each way every time I need something from the boat. I can't imagine it being all the way at the dock. That would suck.

Plus, the docking company gets 10% of whatever repairs/maintenance/work is done to the boat. Stupid, but that is their ruling.

[Bodger]

Were those knobs existing or did you buy those to install? They are very cool.

[Greg from K/W]

Wow what a rip off.

[WarnerConstInc.]

Wow what a rip off.

That's how it goes with owning a large boat.

My dad deals with the same things when he takes his 27' crestliner to put it in his slip at lake michigan.

You should see how much more they get for gas on the lake.

Boats are nothing but a money pit.

[SLS-Construction]

I was wondering that too. Why wasn't it in the water while you where working on it> You could have done some fishing between glue ups.

Been there - done that, it's better on dry land

Looking good Leo

[Greg from K/W]

I have seen the prices. I used to go to Georgian bay fishing with my inlaws and up around Huntsville. The prices where at least 50% more than in town or on the road.

[ChrWright]

Cool project.

[Leo G]

Were those knobs existing or did you buy those to install? They are very cool.

They were existing. It took a while, but I found them on the internet.

http://www.yachtsupplydepot.com/hardware/cabinet-hardware/vetus-push-button-lock-lockdrm/prod_8530.html

[naptownCr]

how come you're not doing a teak and holly cabin sole (floor)?
You aren't doing the ply teak and holly on a swim platform are you?
This should cover this year's rent.

[Greg from K/W]

I was also wondering are you going to drill a hole through the keel so you have a call back to fix something else? You could keep this going for quite a while you know.

[Leo G]

Do you mean am I going to add a fountain display in the cabin area :laugh3:

[naptownCr]

Gee Leo now you can add shipwright to the list of services!

[neolitic]

Boatwright.

[Leo G]

how come you're not doing a teak and holly cabin sole (floor)?
You aren't doing the ply teak and holly on a swim platform are you?
This should cover this year's rent.

He wanted this stuff. So that's what he gets. Nothing is going down hard enough so that it won't come back out, so he can change his mind. He already has a few times, but seeing as I haven't gotten around to those parts of the job yet it doesn't impact me.

The Teak and Holly are going on the exterior floors and the diving platform. We'll see how good this marine plywood really is. They say that is what it is for. We'll see at the end of this boating season if it can stand the test of Mother Nature.

Landlord gets a good deal. I am doing this per hour. He has many other friends with boats and others that he will push to see his boat so I am hoping to get some other work from it.

I'll be able to figure out what it takes and what the materials are. Then I can rape the boaters. He's probably going to have a 4-5 grand labor bill.

[naptownCr]

Boatwright.

As long as he's not an apprentice hook baiter. 5 years later look at what you got!:mad2:

[Greg from K/W]

Leo just tell him its a water feature in the cabin. Custom at that. That would mean an extra grand in your pocket wouldn't it? Anything called custom means more money right?

[Bender]

Looks like a fun project.

[Leo G]

The doors are done and finished. I mocked up what it looks like with one of those knobs. When I was choosing the veneer patches for the knobs I made sure there was no grain stripes in any of them. So they are all mono-toned cherry color. If I had some walnut burl veneer I think that would look cool.

Door with knob recessed:
http://fototime.com/8568E744CC8F674/standard.jpg

Close up knob recessed:
http://fototime.com/EBDE4A1F52BD99E/standard.jpg

Close up knob extended:
http://fototime.com/D69E86DE2650236/standard.jpg

[Greg from K/W]

Wow that is sharp. I wish i had seen those for our kitchen. That would be really cool.

[Leo G]

You do have to veneer them to make them look like that. You know that, right?

[neolitic]

They go all the way through
the sub-straight so it's just veneer
on both sides, right?

[Leo G]

The doors an drawer fronts are veneered on both sides. I need to maintain a balanced panel. There are 2 doors I didn't do both sides on. A small plastic door that covers the electrical and the bathroom door. The electrical door I don't worry about. The bathroom may have to get covered if it warps.

[Tommy]

Are you gonna make one of these tables for him too?



mKEOYfYQO08

[Leo G]

Way to big. Seen that video 2 years ago. Cool table.

[naptownCr]

The doors an drawer fronts are veneered on both sides. I need to maintain a balanced panel. There are 2 doors I didn't do both sides on. A small plastic door that covers the electrical and the bathroom door. The electrical door I don't worry about. The bathroom may have to get covered if it warps.

There is no bathroom on a boat. landlubber

[Leo G]

Head
..............

[naptownCr]

Gotta teach you landlubbers something.
next thing you'll be saying rope
There aint none of that on a boat either.

[Leo G]

lanyard
.............

[totalhome09]

lanyard
.............

What is LINE for 200, Bob.

[Leo G]

fishing
..............

[naptownCr]

lanyard
.............

That's what keeps shiz you dont want to lose from falling overboard

Lines ( anchor Gybe preventer etc))
Halyards (Raises sails)
sheets (sets angles of sails) Main jib Genoa spinnaker
guys (Adjusts spinnaker pole angle)
topping lift (Holds boom up when main is down)
downhaul (used to lower sail)
Barberhauler (A jib adjustment line to bring clew inboard)
Buntline ( used to furl a sail on a square rigged vessel)

[Leo G]

So I should take the lanyard off of you?:laugh3:

[totalhome09]

fishing
..............

While fishing line is technically correct, Line is the corrrect term for rope on a boat, not lanyard.

[Tommy]

So I should take the lanyard off of you?:laugh3:

:laugh3::laugh3::laugh3:

[Leo G]

I am a woodworker, not a boat dude. Deal with it :laugh4:

[Bodger]

Boat: Bust Out Another Thousand.

Nice work man.

I'm not much for water. I prefer to fly over it in a Huey, nice and dry.

Maybe you'll get some work on a Gulfstream next.

http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt10/dingoff/gulfstream.jpg

[Leo G]

That is a lot bigger and slightly more conventional.

[Bodger]

That is a lot bigger and slightly more conventional.


You could do it.

[Leo G]

It would be easier than what I have to deal with now.

[Leo G]

Why do they use gloss finishes in boats?

[naptownCr]

Boat: Bust Out Another Thousand.

Nice work man.

I'm not much for water. I prefer to fly over it in a Huey, nice and dry.

Maybe you'll get some work on a Gulfstream next.

http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt10/dingoff/gulfstream.jpg

that has to be some kind of laminate on the counters. can't be granite, think of the wasted useful load!

[Leo G]

could be thin

[naptownCr]

True they do make a lightweight stone laminated to a honeycomb backing.

[Bodger]

Has to be laminate. Extra weight in aircraft translates to added fuel use, so they must have found a way to lighten that up.
That's a 1988 Gulfstream for sale. Here are some specs on the woodwork:

• Veneer in this Gulfstream IV is a one of a kind. The Radio racks and bulkheads/pocket door assemblies are Flat cut Pom Mai Dou . The rings are a mixture of Russian Walnut, Camphor Burl and Olive Ash Burl while the furniture faces and ledges are Quarter Pom Mai Dou.
The Tables are Shark Wood and Mai Dou with inlays and veneer.

[naptownCr]

Why do they use gloss finishes in boats?
Traditional brightwork
Want to see some bueatiful brightwork take a look at a Hinkley sometime.
the finish looks about a half inch thick.
Generally 20 to 30 coats sanded in between.

[Bodger]

Traditional brightwork
Want to see some bueatiful brightwork take a look at a Hinkley sometime.
the finish looks about a half inch thick.
Generally 20 to 30 coats sanded in between.


Wow. I Googled Hinckley, they make some mighty fine boats. Since 1928.

[naptownCr]

Has to be laminate. Extra weight in aircraft translates to added fuel use, so they must have found a way to lighten that up.
That's a 1988 Gulfstream for sale. Here are some specs on the woodwork:

• Veneer in this Gulfstream IV is a one of a kind. The Radio racks and bulkheads/pocket door assemblies are Flat cut Pom Mai Dou . The rings are a mixture of Russian Walnut, Camphor Burl and Olive Ash Burl while the furniture faces and ledges are Quarter Pom Mai Dou.
The Tables are Shark Wood and Mai Dou with inlays and veneer.

Not only added fuel use but longer take off and landing rolls, less weight and fuel carrying capacity translating into shorter range with a given payload etc etc etc

[naptownCr]

Wow. I Googled Hinckley, they make some mighty fine boats. Since 1928.

Did you check out the picnic launch
27 feet and 400+K

Every Year i go to Maine on vacation
Every year I make a pilgramage to the Hinkley yard in Southwest harbor.
It takes about a week to wipe the drool off my chin afterwards.

[Silvertree]

Just started cleaning my Mutineer, I leave it on a buoy all summer, boat goes in first week of May.

15' of fun when you got wind, which is most days.
Next year I'm looking at a 22' to 26' sail boat.
I was born to run with the wind.

I love all boats, just something cool about being on the water, sailing is by far my favorite pastime.

[naptownCr]

Just started cleaning my Mutineer, I leave it on a buoy all summer, boat goes in first week of May.

15' of fun when you got wind, which is most days.
Next year I'm looking at a 22' to 26' sail boat.
I was born to run with the wind.

I love all boats, just something cool about being on the water, sailing is by far my favorite pastime.

Buy a J22 of J24
Uber fast and fun boats.
OH did I mention the 4-5' draft

[Bodger]

Buy a J22 of J24
Uber fast and fun boats.
OH did I mention the 4-5' draft


Is a 5' draft a lot or a little for a boat like that?

[Silvertree]

I'll check them out, looking at boats is a great way to waste time.

I looked at a McGregor and about 20 other boats. Pearson, Catalina, Westsail (very nice), Alberg, Albin, Dana and on and on.

I could sail Lake Superior this summer with a friend and will probably do a week on the water if time allows. It'll be a 28 foot double ended boat, very roomy for 28 feet with a decent galley and 6' headroom below decks, I'm 5'8" so its perfect for me.

[Leo G]

Wow, your a short guy

[SLS-Construction]

That's what keeps shiz you dont want to lose from falling overboard

Lines ( anchor Gybe preventer etc))
Halyards (Raises sails)
sheets (sets angles of sails) Main jib Genoa spinnaker
guys (Adjusts spinnaker pole angle)
topping lift (Holds boom up when main is down)
downhaul (used to lower sail)
Barberhauler (A jib adjustment line to bring clew inboard)
Buntline ( used to furl a sail on a square rigged vessel)

Qk4BlEnXpwM

Full Scene
AatzkYDmXII

[naptownCr]

Is a 5' draft a lot or a little for a boat like that?

Actually pretty deep for the size of boat
But the keel is a high performance NACA foil and gives a huge righting moment to the hull as it puts a lot of weight down low.

Sorry sounding like an Annapolitan again

[Silvertree]

Wow, your a short guy

Never felt like one.
I did date a few woman taller than me, but settled down with Blondie who seems to find me big enough:rolleyes3:

[Leo G]

Bustin, I'm 1/2" taller

[Bodger]

My last girlfriend was 6 feet tall in her bare feet. I'm only 5' 11", but when she heeled up, she towered over me.

I like tall women, always have. Most of them have dem long legs I likes so much.

Anybody over 5' 8" is a weed anyway. Height is overrated.

[Leo G]

You calling me a weed? Them's fight'n words :laugh3:

[Bodger]

You calling me a weed? Them's fight'n words :laugh3:


You're a DandyLion. Leo. :grin:

[neolitic]

Darcy's got all the weed.....http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/neoliticman/smilie/smilieshifty.gif

[Leo G]

I'm sure it green too.

[Leo G]

Put up the head door today. It won't be impacted by any of the other work so I figured putting it in the boat would be safer than leaving it in my shop.

Ripped out the carpeting today, just the floor. Not sure what we are going to be doing with the wall carpet. It is wrapped in and around other things and would be difficult if not impossible to remove it and have it look good.

http://fototime.com/7E741EBDF0E7C23/orig.jpg

http://fototime.com/BFC709C951F1715/orig.jpg

[ChrWright]

Did you consider teak? Thought that was the traditional wood of choice for boats.

Know it's f-ing pricey though.

[naptownCr]

The companionway would look great with a cherry tread and riser You could get some bending ply and make up the carpet on the bulkheads and cap with and laid up solid. where it meets the curve of the molded hull liner.

[Leo G]

The risers will be cherry. The treads will be the same as the floor. I don't like the floor he chose. Not at all boat like. Simulates T&G Oak.

As for Teak. You can't imagine how pricey it has become. Out of this world for nice lumber. Don't know about veneers though. Originally it was suppose to be stained the same color as the gauge cluster. But he saw the hutch I built out of Cherry and really liked the color and the brightness. I tried to convince him to go with natural in the beginning but he wanted the stain. He changed his own mind. I am biased, I really like the look of natural Cherry. It is one of my favorites.

[Silvertree]

I did a kitchen reface in cherry and just went natural, killer look.

I also did a display in cherry and used Tung oil only. That was pretty also.

[naptownCr]

The risers will be cherry. The treads will be the same as the floor. I don't like the floor he chose. Not at all boat like. Simulates T&G Oak.

As for Teak. You can't imagine how pricey it has become. Out of this world for nice lumber. Don't know about veneers though. Originally it was suppose to be stained the same color as the gauge cluster. But he saw the hutch I built out of Cherry and really liked the color and the brightness. I tried to convince him to go with natural in the beginning but he wanted the stain. He changed his own mind. I am biased, I really like the look of natural Cherry. It is one of my favorites.

Cherry is the new teak for boat interiors along with ash.
see if he will do the cabin sole in an ash the combination will be spectatular.

[Leo G]

Already bought. It is sitting in my shop. Maybe I can convince him to remove it next year when the boat come back out of dock.

[PA Woodbutcher]

What will you be using for a finish on the floor. Living a long way ways from the ocean, I have no idea of the effects of salt water on wood and whats out there for marine finishes.

Paul I also prefer natural cherry...or with a boiled linseed oil. That tends to really bring out the red.

[Leo G]

Floor is prefinished. For home use, not boat use. I hope it stands up. 'Cause I ain;t warrantying it.

Here is the partial install. The hatch in the middle still needs to be glued down. I didn't think far enough ahead, I need to drill a hole in the sole for the pull up. By the time I figured I had to do that I had to worry about keeping the gap around the hatch consistent. So after the adhesive hardens up I will do the hatch and the couple of boards that you can't see because that is where I am standing taking the picture.

http://fototime.com/6BF6720FD0E51A6/orig.jpg

[neolitic]

Where ya been? http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/neoliticman/smilie/smiliewhistling2.gif

[Leo G]

Where has RC been http://fototime.com/277ECDCF9A7A423/orig.gif

[PA Woodbutcher]

Floor is prefinished. For home use, not boat use. I hope it stands up. 'Cause I ain;t warrantying it.


I wouldn't either. I strongly discourage pre finished in kitchens and baths where they will be subjected to water on a regular basis. Lots of cracks for water to get into and no real place for it to go.

[Leo G]

Got some progress pics of the veneer going up on the kitchen area. Still have to route the holes out to size and put up the doors.


http://fototime.com/51FD428B00901FD/orig.jpg

http://fototime.com/FE57945979E894D/orig.jpg

http://fototime.com/B970E46A6DBB532/orig.jpg

http://fototime.com/0CE118FF8512B97/orig.jpg

[nEighter]

damn. Nice work so far leo!

here is that thread on the LS1 85 jimmy Typhoon

http://www.s10planet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22565

[WarriorWithWood]

wow Leo, VERY nice work.

[Leo G]

More progress on the boat.

But first a little ditty on how a cabinet gets veneered.

Take the doors off the cabinet to get to just a face.
http://fototime.com/0B9461DA483314E/orig.jpg

First thing is to make a template. I use masking paper, I cut some small holes in the paper and put masking tape on them, then I can stick the paper on the cabinet face and trace out lines for the outer dimensions and using the edge of my thumb press an outline into the paper and then trace it with my pencil.
http://fototime.com/9D5409C0DB20B6D/orig.jpg

Bring it into the shop and trace out the template on a pc of raw veneer, cut the holes near the door hole outline and put three coats of pre cat CV on it.

Back into the boat and you need to align the veneer perfect, you only get one chance. This stuff is incredibly sticky. The pc of veneer needs to be the right size, smaller is better, to big and you have a pain to trim it.
http://fototime.com/005E094A61910BA/orig.jpg

Then you cut out the hole with a router and sand the edges slightly. Apply the hinges and hang the door.
http://fototime.com/EBFE6B5435A4A7A/orig.jpg

[Leo G]

http://fototime.com/2B313B17610BFDF/orig.jpg

damn this 4 pic limit

[nEighter]

niiiiooooooce! Looking good man! 2 cans of zero?!

[Bodger]

So it has a peel and stick backing. Do you use a J-roller or something to smooth it out?

I see dem Cokie-Colies.

[Leo G]

Many more kicking about the boat. I had some of the leaded stuff today, Coke Classic, been a while. Haven't you figured it out yet, Coke Zero is my trade mark. :laugh3:

I use my fingers to apply it. I go from one side to the other and just smooth it out as I go along. Gotta keep any air bubbles from getting trapped. After that I go over it with a J roller. They say you should burnish it with the corner of a pc of wood. But that might damage the finish. You can do it on the raw stuff, but I won't do it on the finished veneer.

[nEighter]

That is a cool niche you got right there!

[Leo G]

Here is the kitchen area. It is almost complete. A couple more things to do. Put the door on next to the refrigerator. Veneering the area to the left. I tried doing it today but destroyed the veneer because it grabbed a few times and I got it off, but the last time I ripped it and there was no making it look good. So I destroyed it taking it off. I still have the original template and made another one and sprayed it in about 1 hour. I guess I'll try again tomorrow.
http://fototime.com/89534693370296B/orig.jpg

Finally got around to doing some of the decking. The finish is still fresh and because we are still working in the kitchen we are waiting until we are mostly through with that area so we keep the foot traffic off of it. I kept my drying room at 90º today to cure the decking as much as possible, it is set at 70º for overnight. We got two pcs in today, the other out of the way pcs were still to fresh for me to want to take the chance of putting them down.
http://fototime.com/37706D50BBF18B6/orig.jpg

http://fototime.com/A23077123A2E952/orig.jpg

[nEighter]

Looks awesome. One thing that painting gets overlooked on is the dry times. EVERYONE wants to push the envelope on it.. buy why? That is where the price for quality painting goes up. You have to wait for the coating to dry, and you aren't just sitting there holding your kak while it is drying.. you have to get your systems in line to be able to handle it if there is another coat to be applied or any prepwork that must be completed in the mean time.

Kudos sir. Like always your work is awesome Leo. Is there ANYTHING you can do to extend the "tack" or workability of the adhesive on the back of that veneer? Like some type of solvent you could rub the surface with that will not adversely effect the actual hold of the veneer, but would allow you to move the veneer a couple times before setting it?

[nEighter]

BTW what kind of Epoxy you using?

[Bodger]

Looks awesome. One thing that painting gets overlooked on is the dry times. EVERYONE wants to push the envelope on it.. buy why? That is where the price for quality painting goes up. You have to wait for the coating to dry, and you aren't just sitting there holding your kak while it is drying.

About ten years ago I did a whole wall of paint grade built-in bookshelves for a film company exec. Floor to ceiling open shelves above and a bank of doors below with shelves behind. This guy must have had at least 4000 books.

I had my painter come in and he did a fantastic job on the unit after installed. We told the client to wait a MINIMUM of 72 hours before he put any books on those shelves. I even told him to be on the safe side, wait a week.
Nope. 12 hours after that paint was on he starts loading in books. And didn't tell us about it until a month later when he called and said that some of his
dust jackets were stuck to the paint.
At least the guy owned up to it. Some jackholes would have blamed the paint.

[Leo G]

Looks awesome. One thing that painting gets overlooked on is the dry times. EVERYONE wants to push the envelope on it.. buy why? That is where the price for quality painting goes up. You have to wait for the coating to dry, and you aren't just sitting there holding your kak while it is drying.. you have to get your systems in line to be able to handle it if there is another coat to be applied or any prepwork that must be completed in the mean time.

Kudos sir. Like always your work is awesome Leo. Is there ANYTHING you can do to extend the "tack" or workability of the adhesive on the back of that veneer? Like some type of solvent you could rub the surface with that will not adversely effect the actual hold of the veneer, but would allow you to move the veneer a couple times before setting it?


You don't know how many times that thought went through my mind.
I'm not sure, but most liquids that you would think to use don't have enough hang time. They evaporate to quickly. The other thing is it has a paper backing that once you put the veneer on it will seal the surface and prevent the liquid from evaporate. Plus the three coats on the surface too. I'd like to see that liquid. The only thing I could think of is mineral spirits. All the other solvents evaporate much to quick.

[nEighter]

You know Leo.. poooosibly 100% or 90% alcohol. Rub the surface down or even pour it on the section of adhesive that is going down.. it may give you an extra 2 moves before it evaporates, but having it against the surface of the epoxy or whatever.. might keep the evaporation down a bit. If you are using a squeegy like they use for vinyl then you could work any excess out. Then again I guess it would depend on the type of glue used on the veneer. You know the really raw solvents M.E.K. or Xylene may work also. MEK evaporates QUICK!! Xylene may stick around for a bit.. but those are used to cut epoxy so that would be a whole other bag of worms.

Maybe in this case where you have epoxy down you could actually just use water. Sounds crazy but again like applying vinyl you wet it down first and squeegy all the water out.. just a thought. :)

[Leo G]

The Epoxy used is the West System with the 206 hardener for the back side and the 207 for the front side.

The varnish used is Easypoxy (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=6698). I wish I had done the search earlier. It says no where on the can that you can spray it, only brush apply. The specs on this site say you can spray it. Sure would have made that part go quicker.

[Leo G]

You know Leo.. poooosibly 100% or 90% alcohol. Rub the surface down or even pour it on the section of adhesive that is going down.. it may give you an extra 2 moves before it evaporates, but having it against the surface of the epoxy or whatever.. might keep the evaporation down a bit. If you are using a squeegy like they use for vinyl then you could work any excess out. Then again I guess it would depend on the type of glue used on the veneer. You know the really raw solvents M.E.K. or Xylene may work also. MEK evaporates QUICK!! Xylene may stick around for a bit.. but those are used to cut epoxy so that would be a whole other bag of worms.

Maybe in this case where you have epoxy down you could actually just use water. Sounds crazy but again like applying vinyl you wet it down first and squeegy all the water out.. just a thought. :)

Oh, you are talking about the veneer epoxy? It is like contact paper. You peel the backing off and it is ready to apply. It would be nice to be able to use an epoxy to apply this. You could move it around, slip and slide style. No sir. Once it get a hold of the surface, you are commited.

[nEighter]

oh.. okay huh.

[PA Woodbutcher]

Absolutely beautiful Leo:2thumbsup:

[Leo G]

OK, the job is as done as it can get. The boat left the parking lot this morning about 10am.

http://fototime.com/BF277E31DB7256F/orig.jpg

http://fototime.com/52B88872464F680/orig.jpg

http://fototime.com/0FB10656B604A24/orig.jpg

http://fototime.com/D60EF8509F98855/orig.jpg

There, now you have a picture of me, well, my shoes at least.

[SLS-Construction]

Very nice job like always, but... those aren't boat shoes :grin:

[Leo G]

The only water around is from the rain......:grin:

Steel Toed sneakers is what I like to wear.

[WarnerConstInc.]

Is your fly down in that picture?


What happens if all his boat buddy's want their boats pimped?

You will have to hire some 'little people' to work inside them.

[neolitic]

Is your fly down in that picture?


What happens if all his boat buddy's want their boats pimped?

You will have to hire some 'little people' to work inside them.

As soon as the other guys
at the marina see this work,
Leo will be "The Boat Guy."

[nEighter]

DANG! That is awesome Leo! Hope you got enough to get a couple cases of Zero with this job!

[Leo G]

I'll do one boat a year, and you have to bring it to my shop. Even though this was in the parking lot, it was about 45 steps from my shop door. Most of the work had to be done in the shop. When I was doing the floor and the final trim out I was able to bring my tools out to the boat area, but still had to climb in and out of the boat for the cuts. Lots of wasted time walking and climbing. I have just under 150 hrs into this project ($$$). A lot of the materials were bought by the owner but I still had to put out quite a bit of cash for smaller items and finish item. It was a challenging project only because I was doing a lot of stuff I never did before and it had to be done in place. If I was able to take the cabinets out of the boat the veneering would have been soooo much easier.

The nice thing about it is it will be a yearly renewal on the coating of the deck. So I will have to sand/scuff the surface a bit and apply 2 more coats. As long as the epoxy does its job the varnish should be the only thing to refresh. And even if some of the deck goes bad I can use the old as a pattern for the new. I learned I can spray the varnish on, to get it out of the can, and then back brush it to get rid of the orange peel texture. Makes a much quicker than slinging a brush like I did at the beginning before I knew that spraying was a viable choice for application. Most varnishes would be full of bubbles because of its nature to trap air bubbles. All in all a good learning project.

[naptownCr]

I liked the roll and tip method used on many marine urethanes both one and two part. The Badger hair brushes aren't cheap however.

[neolitic]

I liked the roll and tip method used on many marine urethanes both one and two part. The Badger hair brushes aren't cheap however.

But the Bodgerhair ones are too prickly.....

[Leo G]

I used a Purdy. 3" sash brush. Spraying it out gets a very even coat on the wood. Tipping it off helps get rid of the orange peel at the cost of brush strokes. The brush strokes are pretty much invisible because of the 18 hour dry period.

[naptownCr]

But the Bodgerhair ones are too prickly.....

and tend to leave 9 MM holes everywhere

[neolitic]

OK, the job is as done as it can get. The boat left the parking lot this morning about 10am.

http://fototime.com/BF277E31DB7256F/orig.jpg



There, now you have a picture of me, well, my shoes at least.

I bet the value of that boat just
went up $20K.

[mmike032]

very nice Leo,
is he gonna let you borrow it now?

[Bodger]

and tend to leave 9 MM holes everywhere

But the Bodgerhair ones are too prickly.....



Bodgerhairs always fall out. :o



P.S: Great work as always Leo.