Should Your Old Wood Windows Be Saved?

[JasonW]

Finally, some support for restoring old windows from FHB! Preservationists have known this for a long time. Unfortunately, the remodeling industry is usually lead by the manufacturers who would rather not let you know you don't need to buy there products to be efficient all the time...


We weigh the options with cost, complexity, efficiency, and preservation in mind.
by Rob Yagid

For many homeowners looking to improve the energy efficiency of a house, one of the first things considered is the windows. Old windows can have lots of drawbacks: broken glass, poorly operating sashes, wood damage, worn jambs. The big question then becomes whether to replace or to repair the old windows. Although replacements could be the right answer, don't discount the idea of repair, according to FHB associate editor Rob Yagid. Replacement windows can have an extremely prolonged payback period. Old wood windows, however, were built to be repairable. An illustrated problem-and-solution guide will help you to determine your best option.

More... (http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/articles/should-your-old-wood-windows-be-saved.aspx)

[neolitic]

Another good place to add
your friend's link.....
http://www.historichomeworks.com/hhw/index.htm

[WarnerConstInc.]

You won't be able to afford to fix them now, they are contaminated!!

[JasonW]

You won't be able to afford to fix them now, they are contaminated!!

Actually, just the opposite. You'll disturb far less lead paint by fixing them than you will by tearing them out and replacing them.

[afkama]

I've won quite a few jobs because we were the ones telling the client that their windows didn't have to be replaced and that we could refurbish them for a lot less money. Especially when there is stucco involved.

We've done so many of them now that we have it down to a science.

[WarnerConstInc.]

Actually, just the opposite. You'll disturb far less lead paint by fixing them than you will by tearing the out and replacing them.

Not trying to be argumentative but, how?

To take the old sashes out, you do the same things you would if you were putting a replacement unit in.

Pop stops, pull sash, pop parting beads, pull other sash.

Same thing to put in a plastic replacement window.

[JasonW]

I've won quite a few jobs because we were the ones telling the client that their windows didn't have to be replaced and that we could refurbish them for a lot less money. Especially when there is stucco involved.

We've done so many of them now that we have it down to a science.

Have you tried the steam method of removing glazing? I haven't yet but it looks pretty slick. If you haven't seen it, you can find it in the link Neo posted. I'm still using a heat gun but would love to hear about other results with steam.

[SLS-Construction]

You won't be able to afford to fix them now, they are contaminated!!

Actually, just the opposite. You'll disturb far less lead paint by fixing them than you will by tearing them out and replacing them.

Not trying to be argumentative but, how?

To take the old sashes out, you do the same things you would if you were putting a replacement unit in.

Pop stops, pull sash, pop parting beads, pull other sash.

Same thing to put in a plastic replacement window.

First, the RRP mandates the regulations apply to "Replacement windows" not repairs. Now depending on the size of the windows, they could possibly skip the mandated practices. Now in all honesty, you are probably still going to use plastic inside. On the outside, you don't have to worry about it as you are not working out there. Will you still pick up paint chips, etc... of course

As for the fixing part - you will probably be doing the work either in your trailer, at a shop, or sending them to a third party in some cases. Guess what - no RRP regs apply on any of those places.

While someone is fixing the actual window unit, you can easily work inside popping the trim, insulating it, installing either a new roller or track system & as soon as the windows get fixed, you pop them back in & finish your cleanup.

[afkama]

Have you tried the steam method of removing glazing? I haven't yet but it looks pretty slick. If you haven't seen it, you can find it in the link Neo posted. I'm still using a heat gun but would love to hear about other results with steam.

We haven't either, but I agree it looks intriguing and worth a try.
We've been using paint stripper.

[neolitic]

Have you tried the steam method of removing glazing? I haven't yet but it looks pretty slick. If you haven't seen it, you can find it in the link Neo posted. I'm still using a heat gun but would love to hear about other results with steam.

If I get really ambitious
I may try that out on my own.

[Silvertree]

We've known for years that window repair makes sense, its cheaper, faster and greener.

There are a few ways to improve old windows and many older windows if fitted with wood frame storm windows are very close to meeting the efficiencies of new windows, except for triple pane which will never pay you back in your life time as a retrofit.

Add the fact that your using less materials and keeping the landfill cleaner and an argument could be made its the greener way of doing windows.

[WarnerConstInc.]

First, the RRP mandates the regulations apply to "Replacement windows" not repairs. Now depending on the size of the windows, they could possibly skip the mandated practices. Now in all honesty, you are probably still going to use plastic inside. On the outside, you don't have to worry about it as you are not working out there. Will you still pick up paint chips, etc... of course

As for the fixing part - you will probably be doing the work either in your trailer, at a shop, or sending them to a third party in some cases. Guess what - no RRP regs apply on any of those places.

While someone is fixing the actual window unit, you can easily work inside popping the trim, insulating it, installing either a new roller or track system & as soon as the windows get fixed, you pop them back in & finish your cleanup.

What are you going to put in the holes while the sashes are off getting repaired?

[SLS-Construction]

What are you going to put in the holes while the sashes are off getting repaired?

What do you use right now?

If you just tarp over them now - you can still tarp over them. (the tarp is still a poly item & it prevents dust from spreading)

If you use plywood, you might want to consider adding a sheet of poly to, but depending on you deal with it - it might not be necessary.

[WarnerConstInc.]

What do you use right now?

If you just tarp over them now - you can still tarp over them. (the tarp is still a poly item & it prevents dust from spreading)

If you use plywood, you might want to consider adding a sheet of poly to, but depending on you deal with it - it might not be necessary.

Different sashes. You should see all the window sashes I have.

I slowly re-do some here and there, some people want their own fixed, some dont care.

[Silvertree]

Window, there's a guy round here who had a trailer with everything to router out sashes and install new glass. Everything was done in the HO's driveway or street.

[afkama]

Window, there's a guy round here who had a trailer with everything to router out sashes and install new glass. Everything was done in the HO's driveway or street.

We do them on site. We've also worked out ways to weatherstrip windows that is as good or better than new.

[WarnerConstInc.]

V-spring bronze, like what is on really old doors still.

[afkama]

V-spring bronze, like what is on really old doors still.

I've never been crazy about the way that stuff looks. We use a lot of different products depending on the application. Silicone bulbs, a flexible plastic surrounded by bristles, foam inserted into a kerf at the stop etc.

Because of our climate our issues aren't so much weather as they are sound transmission. We install a weatherstrip and then a backup weatherstrip as insurance. We'll install laminated glass and then change out the pig iron weights for lead to compensate for the extra weight. We install these in tubes so we can shoot foam into the cavity. Works pretty well.

[WarnerConstInc.]

Lead weights?:laugh3:

I still use lead for flashings.

I put on the sashes so you dont see it, wax the jamb and they open and close well and stay pretty tight.

Wood storms and screens are sweet but, no one wants to spend the $$ on making new ones.

[afkama]

Lead weights?:laugh3:

I still use lead for flashings.

I put on the sashes so you dont see it, wax the jamb and they open and close well and stay pretty tight.

Wood storms and screens are sweet but, no one wants to spend the $$ on making new ones.

Those lead weights are expensive, but we need to use them because of the weight of the extra glass.
attached is one of the systems we use. Another reason I like it is because it gets rid of the rattle and by using nylon brushes we don't have to set everything so tight. The windows are sealed but still glide easily.
Better than new really.

[WarnerConstInc.]

Got a source for that, or is a pemko product.

[afkama]

Got a source for that, or is a pemko product.

When I had a cabinet, window and door shop I ran across this British outfit that carries just about anything you could need for sash windows:

Catalog:

http://www.mightonproducts.com/catalog/index.php?osCsid=951e6a2b8d3970f51fa797fe773c8f6f

USA Distributor:

http://www.strybuc.com/

Great resource for weatherstripping in general:

http://www.conservationtechnology.com/building_weatherseals_components.html

[Celia]

Thank for the catalog...think I will use them for my project