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Bender
May 29th, 2010, 01:16 PM
Our house didn't have a exhaust fan in it. When I put one in (at the time) I was afraid of cutting a hole in roof so I ran about 20' of dryer vent and vented it out at one of my gables.

A couple years later I heard it 'gurgling'. The dryer vent had settled on the insulation and slowly sunk in deeper and deeper as condensate collected. Eventually it got low enough to make a p-trap of sorts:rolleyes3:

So the 1st question is...
If I strap the vent to a few trusses and leave it as is, is that exceptable? Or do I need to cut a hole in the roof and vent it straight up?


2nd question; I added this 220 outlet next to my panel. Is it ok?

Silvertree
May 29th, 2010, 01:20 PM
Outlet is OK but code says nothing in front of the panel or too close besides it.

You must be able to have clear access and be able to open the panel door 90 degrees.

On the venting, you can vent out (meaning past the siding) and need a flap tp prevent downdraft.

neolitic
May 29th, 2010, 01:24 PM
You would be better off with
smooth pipe.
Better yet, insulated. (less condensate)
Better yet, as short as practical.
(i.e. through the roof)

Blue
May 29th, 2010, 02:03 PM
Good question on the dryer vent. I always thought an uninterupted duct to the exterior was the rule but I have seen interior traps that you set on the floor and hook the hose to it sold at Lowes.

On the panel an inspector told me a rule that always stuck with me. If you can take the box that your refrigerator came in and pushed it up against the panel and nothing touches it your ok. Ceiling to floor.

Blue
May 29th, 2010, 02:08 PM
Found this on clothes dryers. http://www.dryerbox.com/convertions/pdfs/2003-Intl-Residential-Code.pdf

neolitic
May 29th, 2010, 02:08 PM
I was assuming Bender was
talking about a bath fan?

orson
May 29th, 2010, 02:54 PM
He said exhaust fan and then he said dryer vent...I think he's toying with us :grin:

I had the same problem on my first house, they ran the dryer vent in rigid metal pipe about 12 feet horizontally through unconditioned space and termineated it in a gable wall.

When I moved in I couldn't figure out why the dryer didn't seem to be working right until I found from the dryer up about 3 feet it was full of water.

Changed it to vent through the roof, a run of about 3 feet and no more problems.

neolitic
May 29th, 2010, 03:10 PM
I think he attached that plastic
dryer vent hose to the bath fan.
Only time, and the OP will tell.....

Bender
May 29th, 2010, 03:17 PM
:o Painter:rolleyes3:

I put an exhaust fan (fart fan) in the bathroom and vented it with the flexible dryer vent hose to a louvered dryer vent that I cut in the gable.
Please don't make me go up there and take pics:bigcry:

Bender
May 29th, 2010, 03:18 PM
I was assuming Bender was
talking about a bath fan?

Great minds....

orson
May 29th, 2010, 03:23 PM
If you want to fart around with it get the water out and get the majority of it under insulation.

If you don't just go through the roof. :2thumbsup:

I know you think that just cuz you're a painter you can't possibly install a roof vent right, but we have faith in you. After you install it take a picture and then we'll yell at you until you get it right. :laugh3:

Bender
May 30th, 2010, 06:36 PM
OK Thank you all:)

Scott_W
May 30th, 2010, 07:16 PM
If you are running it out the gable,you need to run it up for about the first 2-3 ft. Then you run it down so any condensate runs out the vent in the gable. Not a huge incline, but enough to make it drain out (1/8- 1/4" per ft or so)

Also ALWAYS use ridgid pipe and wrap it in unconditioned spaces. It helps.

scott

Bender
June 4th, 2010, 11:35 AM
How about my water softener?

Its in the garage and drains into my slop sink. Is that up to code?

Silvertree
June 12th, 2010, 09:36 AM
Actually, yes!