Best way to clean up old cabinets?

[DavidC]

Looking forward to installing a concrete counter top in this kitchen and I want to get the best pics I can. To that end I am volunteering to clean the cabinets faces. They are original to the house, built about 25 years ago.

I was thinking TSP but am wondering what the painters think would be best. I doubt they have received anything more than an occasional wipe since being installed.

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/Shampine%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1054.jpg

Good Luck
Dave

[fez-head]

you should volunteer to replace that stove as well ;)


We used Krud Kutter from SW to clean the grease and filth prior to painting the cabinets of the rehab we are working on. It worked real good.

[Leo G]

TSP is what I was gonna say. What about one of the citrus products. The acid might not be a good thing for them though.

[Allrounder]

TSP is probably the best cleaner out there, but keep in mind that it's meant as a paint prep, so it removes a lot of things--including the ancient varnish, if you mix it strong enough, so be careful.

The citrus stuff will give you some shine and would look pretty for your picture, but you'd be doing your client a disservice by putting that garbage on their cabinets.

[Eieio]

Goof off..

Just did some cabinets and 5 doors with it..

[fez-head]

Goof off..

Just did some cabinets and 5 doors with it..

seems like that would gum up the finish on old cabinets for sure.

[Leo G]

Goof off has acetone in it. You better be sure that cabinet has Conversion Varnish or some other post catalyzed coating on it.

[Eieio]

seems like that would gum up the finish on old cabinets for sure.

We use it to clean up the scuff marks, crayon marks from the kids ect, then wipe them down with a cleaning solution depending on the surface..

The goof is great to get off the dirt, smoke and grease grime, then the solution of choice to wipe down the surface based on the finishes of the surface your working on

[bconley]

Formbeys Lemon Oil Cleaner or even Watco's Oil or Penetrol will spruce them up

[neolitic]

Murphy's Oil Soap?

[Dusty]

Orange works really well on cabinets. Rinse, let dry, then top off with lemon oil. That will give a tempory appeal and a lot more work then you think.

I would Up sell. If you are going to put the work into those cabinets you might as well give the customer something that will last.

Here is what I do- clean those cabinets using a citrus product and a 000 steel wool. Rinse with clean water as you go along (saves time). Then apply a fresh coat of Poly. I prefer a tinted poly when bringing cabinets back to life. It helps hide flaws.

I do the face and both the inside and outside of the doors.

You don't have to remove the doors. With a good 2"-2.5" brush you should be able to get behind the doors just fine. Now would be a good time to replace the pulls.

Gently place a screw or toothpick between the door and frame to prop the doors open durring the drying time. You don't want them to close shut.

[DavidC]

you should volunteer to replace that stove as well ;)


We used Krud Kutter from SW to clean the grease and filth prior to painting the cabinets of the rehab we are working on. It worked real good.

Last I heard her son claimed he had her convinced to replace the range. A new fridge was delivered yesterday, the dishwasher is just a couple of months old and the micro-range hood is slated for replacement.

I asked the son if his mom would be offended if I rented a range for the photos, he said he'd work on her.

Thanks for the cleaning tip.

Good Luck
Dave

[DavidC]

So far I like Dusty's suggestion the most, cause it seems like the least work over all. (The cleaning minus the poly) But somebody referred to the citrus stuff as crap, so what's up with that?

My complete original plan was TSP followed by a coat of shellac or poly, depending on what I had in the garage. If I ended up with a lighter finish she would be pleased as punch. (Prolly unless it was blotchy) The shellac or poly would be just to make it shine a little for the pics.

There is no money in this for us, it is strictly volunteer. I wouldn't normally go this far but this is the only time we will install our first complete concrete counter top and I want it to look as best we can make it. Maybe the second one won't be so difficult to sell.

Thanks to everyone for the tips.

Good Luck
Dave

[Leo G]

Shellac is to wimpy to use on cabinets. It will be damaged by anything with alcohol in it.

[naptownCr]

I vote for about 8 ounces of C4
stand well back and have a contract for new cabinets ready

[Leo G]

And a couple of walls and maybe part of a roof....

[Dusty]

Here is a face lift I just finished up using the method in post #11. The upper cabinets were not too bad, but the lowers definitely need some love.

Everything was solid in this kitchen. The countertops were refinished with Hawks Stoneflex finish. Which will hold up as well as laminate and is more stain resistant.

I used a tinted Poly on the cabinets. For you do it your selfers, Preperation is everything. And you need to be careful when using a tinted polyurethane because any drips will be quite noticeable. Take your time.


3877

3878

The same tinted polyurethane was used on the antique buffet in this house. The person who did this failed to prep the surface, thus causing the poly to glob and seperate.

3876

[Absolute Basements]

very nice work, Dusty!!

[Blue]

Here is a face lift I just finished up using the method in post #11. The upper cabinets were not too bad, but the lowers definitely need some love.

Everything was solid in this kitchen. The countertops were refinished with Hawks Stoneflex finish. Which will hold up as well as laminate and is more stain resistant.

I used a tinted Poly on the cabinets. For you do it your selfers, Preperation is everything. And you need to be careful when using a tinted polyurethane because any drips will be quite noticeable. Take your time.


3877

3878

The same tinted polyurethane was used on the antique buffet in this house. The person who did this failed to prep the surface, thus causing the poly to glob and seperate.

3876

Dang! Thats a dramatic improvement. Good job.

[Bodger]

Nice work Dusty.

[RCP]

That looks great Dusty, I love what you did with the counters!

[Allrounder]

Wow, nice facelift Dusty!

[DavidC]

Very nice Dusty. I am assuming that the Stoneflex is a coating applied to the laminate. If I've got that right my question would be, how does it hold up over the corner miters?

There is a product to result in a similar look to the concrete counters that I've considered playing with but am concerned about it cracking over seams if there is any movement.

Good Luck
Dave

[Leo G]

Sure looks better than the before. It has the glow back.

[Dusty]

Very nice Dusty. I am assuming that the Stoneflex is a coating applied to the laminate. If I've got that right my question would be, how does it hold up over the corner miters?

There is a product to result in a similar look to the concrete counters that I've considered playing with but am concerned about it cracking over seams if there is any movement.

Good Luck
Dave

Good question. From my experience with the product, in case of movement, I can foresee cracking within the seam, but you will not get a continuous chipping and pealing effect providing the product was applied properly.

Well, my data sheet claims that the topcoat I use passes a 1/4 flexibility test done on cold steel. Ok. great. So they bent the metal. But here we are more concerned about up and down or side to side movement.

Give them a call because their website sucks. I don't know if this product will suit your needs or not. It is Hawk Research Labs out of the Chicago area. 800-321-4295

http://www.hawklabs.com/

Midwest Chemicals out of Florida has concrete finishing products. They may be worth looking into.
http://www.midwestchemicals.com/index.asp?p=ConcreteRefinishing

This also may be something worth looking into. The kid is bugging for a bath so I didn't get to read into much.

http://www.aurastone.com/