Ideas for dressing up a halway

[WarnerConstInc.]

Looked at a house today that I got a huge list of work that needs done.

My favorite kind of work too, just make it nice and give me a bill type work.

Basically there is a big T shaped hallway. No doors in the first part but, 7 in the main part of it.

I am going to put up crown through out the house, new casing on the hallway
doors, crown and some sort of simple wainscoting.

I need the hall way to look good but not be over bearing with natural oak trim.

Anyone got any simple yet tasteful ideas?

[Leo G]

Everything is stained oak?

How is the rest of the house set up? Straight lines and plane or straight lines and some slightly detailed moldings or are there curves in the house?

[WarnerConstInc.]

Everything is stained oak?

How is the rest of the house set up? Straight lines and plane or straight lines and some slightly detailed moldings or are there curves in the house?

Yes, everything but the cabinets is stained red oak.

I think a painted wainscoting would be neat in the hall way (about 50' of hall) but, I am not sure if they would be up for that, everything is natural wood.

I wish I could talk them into some new doors but, the slab oak doors are in good shape, just plain, I guess I could add some applied moldings to the doors to fancy them up.

The house is a giant U-shaped ranch (about 5000 sq/ft) only funky thing is the sunken living room.

Plain and straight Leo, it was a giant ranch built in the 70's, I have one room that is getting the last of the grey washed paneling removed and dry walled.

[Leo G]

For the wainscoting you can split the difference. Use a 6" bottom rail a 5" top rail and 4" center stiles. Maybe put a small molding on the inside, nothing bold at all, perhaps a cove. Put a bullnose cap on it with the same cove underneath the cap. Leave the frame open so it shows the wall. For a more formal look put 1/4" oak ply behind it. If you have 8' ceilings make it 32" tall.

Crown molding should be in the 3 1/2"-4 1/4" range. What kind of casings are you planning on the doors and window having. Flat with a band molding or profiled, how big?

[WarnerConstInc.]

I will use a fairly wide casing and something that will work good with the wainscoting I will use.

I do like the idea of using a banding on the casing to make it come out to the wainscoting.

I think the crown will be a 3 1/2 in the hall and maybe something bigger in the living room/dinning room area.

[Leo G]

You realize this is pretty difficult giving you ideas without having a clue what this place looks like. How dark is the stain?

[WarnerConstInc.]

You realize this is pretty difficult giving you ideas without having a clue what this place looks like. How dark is the stain?

I know it is, I am going back tomorrow or wednesday, I will take a few pictures.

It looks like all the red oak around here, it is darker then just a clear but, at the same time, not real dark.

I know he has stain that he had mixed to match so that part is easy.

[WarnerConstInc.]

I sent him a text message to take a couple pictures of that hallway and email them to me.

I think he builds bombs for the government or something like that. Something having to do with security and identity crap. All I know is that he makes mid 6 figures a year.

[Leo G]

I'm so glad everyone else has a little input on this project.

I'd like to that all the little people for their ideas.....:rolleyes3:























That should get them talking

[WarnerConstInc.]

the pictures were kind of crappy, he took them with his iphone and sent them to my iphone.

He is checking the stain for me right now.

[WarnerConstInc.]

It is a custom SW bac (??) wiping stain, he is getting me the color formula.

[Leo G]

You able to get the pics off your phone and up here?

[WarnerConstInc.]

You able to get the pics off your phone and up here?

I emailed them to myself but, they look like crap.

[Leo G]

email them to me, I'll fix'em up

[Leo G]

http://fototime.com/2A9B9D78B0A8B4D/standard.jpg

http://fototime.com/82B90D5F0D0BECF/standard.jpg

http://fototime.com/27C583EE9196566/standard.jpg

[Leo G]

You gotta lot of work ahead of you. Looks like a dentist office hallway.

[Allrounder]

a low cost option would be a chair rail with different colored paint above and below

[WarnerConstInc.]

You gotta lot of work ahead of you. Looks like a dentist office hallway.

Yeah, it looks like shit right now.

He said he hates just walking down it now.
I just dont want it to be to dark. It needs to have some appeal as you have to walk down it to get to the bedrooms, laundry room and 2 of the 4 bathrooms.

It is at the far end of the living room, in the center of the wall, looks like a cave right now.

[WarnerConstInc.]

a low cost option would be a chair rail with different colored paint above and below

I agree and that was the first thing I told him but, he said is tired of simple and low cost, he wants something different and nice.

[Bodger]

http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt10/dingoff/exam-room-sign-largethumb8726530.jpg

[WarnerConstInc.]

http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt10/dingoff/exam-room-sign-largethumb8726530.jpg

:laugh3::laugh3::laugh3:

Now I just have to swap out the locksets with card readers.

[Leo G]

He wants different huh?

Make the wainscoting as I described it earlier. Make the panels different sizes. Make them in sets of threes. With the center one being about 50% longer than the two outside panels. Above them have judge paneling. Have the sconces centered in the judges panels at about 77" at the light.

[Allrounder]

I agree and that was the first thing I told him but, he said is tired of simple and low cost, he wants something different and nice.

Damn, my heart would probably stop if somebody told me that!

It's pretty sad that the market has me trained to start off with inexpensive and work my way up, instead of the other way around.

[WarnerConstInc.]

He wants different huh?

Make the wainscoting as I described it earlier. Make the panels different sizes. Make them in sets of threes. With the center one being about 50% longer than the two outside panels. Above them have judge paneling. Have the sconces centered in the judges panels at about 77" at the light.

Wider or taller?

Judge paneling? Another level or just in the spots where the scones are?

I am sorry, I am tired and have a vague idea of what you call judge paneling.

[WarnerConstInc.]

Damn, my heart would probably stop if somebody told me that!

It's pretty sad that the market has me trained to start off with inexpensive and work my way up, instead of the other way around.

I know what you mean, trust me. I almost started to sell tools this spring because of that.

There is enough work to do at his place to last me a year.

They are getting ready to have kids so I think his wife put her foot down.
He has done a bunch of work to the place himself ( I actually asked who he got to tile a bunch of the floors) he did a nice job.

[Leo G]

Wider or taller?

Judge paneling? Another level or just in the spots where the scones are?

I am sorry, I am tired and have a vague idea of what you call judge paneling.

Judges paneling is just a molding made into a frame and nailed to the wall. I always called it picture frame wainscoting.

Make the wainscoting wider on the third panel, everything stays about 32" tall. Start the judges paneling about 14-16" above the wainscoting cap. Bring it up to about 7" below the bottom of the crown. Have the judges paneling the same width as the panels in the wainscoting so if you draw a line up they are all in the same line.

You can put the eyeball spots on the ceiling where the wider areas of the judges paneling is and a picture inside the molding. That way the pictures are framed in the judges paneling.

[WarnerConstInc.]

Why didn't you just call it picture frame wainscoting to start with.

Judges panel makes me think of a solid wood paneled wall.

two small panels then wide panel and repeat?

too busy to do one small, one wide, one small and repeat?

[Leo G]

Unless you made the long panel 2x the short. The other option is to have the two short panels have a picture frame panel span the distance of both of them.

I was also thinking that if you were to use the walls as a display area for pictures then you only put the picture frame panels on one wall and not on the other. So as you travel down the hallway all the picture frames and pictures would be on your left (or right) and all the eyeball lights would only point on that side. Then you could put sconces on the other side with picture frames only around the lighting.

As long as there were pictures on the wall it would look great. If there were no pictures then it would look unbalanced.

[WarnerConstInc.]

Now you are getting all sorts of busy on me.

I got a good idea of what would look good.

I need to hit the mill tomorrow and squeeze them for some more samples.
Now I need to find out where to get 1/4" oak ply.

[Leo G]

You said different. If you have the pics on the wall all the way down the hallway it would look real nice. Without the pics it would look odd. You gotta think of the finished project not half way done.




Hell, HD and Lowe's should have oak plywood. Any plywood supplier will have it. Probably some lumber yards too.

I have to locate some 1" thick Maple veneered plywood tomorrow. Should be more challenging than 1/4" Oak.

[WarnerConstInc.]

Hard wood is easier to come by around here then veneered ply.

I think I am buying a couple new tools for this job.

[Leo G]

Laser level?

[WarnerConstInc.]

More like a domino and a festool router.

[Leo G]

Mr Moneybags

[JasonW]

Would the guy be willing to make the hall any wider? Can you move one of the walls to one side about 6"? That's gonna be tough doing much to that narrow hall without making it feel crowded.

[DavidC]

How about recessing into the wall cavities here and there? Frame it like a window, back up the drywall of the other side with 3/4" ply and build some lighted recesses for small shelving or artwork display, etc. Built above the wainscoting it would give the feel of width where it's needed.

Good Luck
Dave

[JasonW]

/\ /\ I like that! /\ /\

[WarnerConstInc.]

Would the guy be willing to make the hall any wider? Can you move one of the walls to one side about 6"? That's gonna be tough doing much to that narrow hall without making it feel crowded.

Not easily done and they just had all the ceilings scraped and textured so I don't want to have to mess with moving stuff around.

How about recessing into the wall cavities here and there? Frame it like a window, back up the drywall of the other side with 3/4" ply and build some lighted recesses for small shelving or artwork display, etc. Built above the wainscoting it would give the feel of width where it's needed.

Good Luck
Dave

I like that Idea Dave, I could do some arched or cathedral topped niches the wall.

[WarnerConstInc.]

Mr Moneybags

I know, those 2 tools and the accessories would be about 2k.:smash:

[Leo G]

With your luck, every wall you open up to do those inserts will have plumbing or electrical running through them. :laugh3:

[WarnerConstInc.]

With your luck, every wall you open up to do those inserts will have plumbing or electrical running through them. :laugh3:

I know there is no plumbing and the wiring should all be low but, as it always works something will go wrong no matter what!!!

[WarnerConstInc.]

Now I have to figure out what way is up on these crown samples I picked up.

I know, some trim guy is he doesn't know what way up is huh?
Never mind, once I held it up, the bead on it can only go at the bottom.


I am going back up there tonight, I will snap some pictures of the hall way and living room.

[neolitic]

How about troffers rather than crown?
It might make it look less tall and narrow?

[neolitic]

Now I have to figure out what way is up on these crown samples I picked up.

I know, some trim guy is he doesn't know what way up is huh?

I am going back up there tonight, I will snap some pictures of the hall way and living room.

Cove-ish part down,
bulge-ish part up.

[WarnerConstInc.]

How about troffers rather than crown?
It might make it look less tall and narrow?

Troffers? Drop in florescent lights?

Is this like car siding?:laugh3:

[WarnerConstInc.]

Is bulgy and convexy totally. :mad2:

I think the first and 3rd are right.

[Leo G]

Looks right both ways. But I think because in the 1st and 3rd pics you have the larger flat (shoulder) up towards the ceiling that would be the correct way to put it. If both were equal I would tend to put it the other way.

[WarnerConstInc.]

It looks odd flipped the other way because of large shoulder.

The 4 1/4" piece is more obvious then that 3 1/4" piece.

I just got back from digging out 70 years worth of dirt, bugs, rocks and rotten old stairs from an exterior cellar entrance.

Make the steps tonight in the garage and go drop them in in the morning.

[WarnerConstInc.]

Ok, all the hallway is now going to be painted trim and wall paneling with crown.

Now I just need to figure out how to bead the edges of my rails and styles to pick up a bead detail from the casing and crown.

Went with a 4 1/4" version of that crown I took a picture of for the living room dining room area, which is 45' by 25'.

There are 7 doors and almost 90' of hallway minus the door openings.

This will be a fun project.

[neolitic]

Just do square edged rails and stiles
then add a 1/4X3/4 piece with the
bead on one edge.
Can't remember what to call it
right now...
Leo, explain it for me.

[Leo G]

It's called a bead. You nailed it.

[WarnerConstInc.]

Just do square edged rails and stiles
then add a 1/4X3/4 piece with the
bead on one edge.
Can't remember what to call it
right now...
Leo, explain it for me.


It's called a bead. You nailed it.


I guess I would have to, I dont see a way to bead those and make the joints line up. I am still going to use a 1/4" flat panel with these though, I don't want to just paint the drywall to make it look like there is a panel there.

[Leo G]

You gonna use 1/2" plywood for the stiles and rails and 1/4" ply for the backs so it adds up to 3/4" so you don't run into thickness problems?

[WarnerConstInc.]

You gonna use 1/2" plywood for the stiles and rails and 1/4" ply for the backs so it adds up to 3/4" so you don't run into thickness problems?

No, the door casing is 3/4" on the outside edge so that takes care of all my issues. Door casing 3 1/2" wide with a bead detail on the inside edge.

I will rabbet out the rails and styles so the panel will float.
I know it may not be needed when applying a bead detail but, I would be more confident in the final project doing it that way.

[Leo G]

If I was doing it I would make the stiles and rails, put it together with pocket screws. Then run a router with a rabbet bit so I have a 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide rabbet on the inside perimeter of the stile/rail box. Then I would cut the panel 1/8" smaller than the opening, glue and staple the panel in there. Run a crapload of 1/4" bead with a 1/16" quirk and use a 23 ga pinner and some glue to apply them If it was paint grade I would think about using 1/4" MDF for the panels. You could foreseeably use MDF for the whole panel and it would be rock stable. Once painted it would look fine.

[WarnerConstInc.]

If I was doing it I would make the stiles and rails, put it together with pocket screws. Then run a router with a rabbet bit so I have a 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide rabbet on the inside perimeter of the stile/rail box. Then I would cut the panel 1/8" smaller than the opening, glue and staple the panel in there. Run a crapload of 1/4" bead with a 1/16" quirk and use a 23 ga pinner and some glue to apply them If it was paint grade I would think about using 1/4" MDF for the panels. You could foreseeably use MDF for the whole panel and it would be rock stable. Once painted it would look fine.


That was going to be my game plan, I was thinking about substituting pocket screws for a domino (I need a new tool).
I will be picking up a new festool router, just can't decide which one I want.
They have their small trim router, 1010 router, 1400 router and a handheld shaper router the 2200.


I was planning on using 1/4" mdf for the panels and poplar for the rest.

MDF for the rails and styles would not hold up as well as solid poplar, imo.
Plus I would have to rip all that mdf to size vs. buying S4S poplar and cutting them just to length.

[Leo G]

Pocket screw would be much quicker and no waiting for glue to dry. You can still buy your tool if you want Mr Moneybags. And with the time you save using pocket screws you will be better able to afford it. You can even use the domino's with pocket screws as permanent clamps.

[WarnerConstInc.]

I hate lining up the parts when using pocket screws.

I was cheap and didn't buy the clamp. I also would have to modify my MFT to accept that clamp.

How is drilling the holes and all that quicker then plunge cutting a domino?

Agreed that more clamping and wait time for the glue to dry would be slower.

It's not like I could work on a few sections at the same time, there is 90' of hallway.

Maybe I should look at that Kreg beaded face frame thing they have out now.

[Leo G]

I would assume that you will have to use two domino's per stile rail joint. That means you need to drill 4 domino holes. With the pocket screws you only need to drill 2 holes. If you have the clamp you shouldn't even need the table. When I do parts the only reason I need the table for is supporting the pcs. I have 4 of those Kreg clamps I would put 2 on the joint, screw it off and go to the next joint, put on two clamps and screw it off. Grab the first set of clamps and continue on like that. I like to let the clamps sit a bit so the glue tacks up. This prevents the slight movement that you may get using the pocket screws. I have my Kreg Foreman setup almost perfect. I rarely get any movement with my joints. You gotta make sure that the small part of the drill bit does not break through. It should stay about 1/8" from breaking through.

You are nailing it to the wall. How strong does it need to be. And I am a guy who likes to overbuild.

[WarnerConstInc.]

I think I could get by with one wider domino.

I do think pocket screws would be quicker if I had the Foreman.
I have to do it the Manuel way Leo!!!

I guess I don't need it strong enough to hold up the house but, I wouldn't mind it looking good for the next 30 years or so.

Maybe I should get another mft/3 table so I have more area to assemble these.

Damn, I got the itch for some tools.
I could get buy with the kapex extensions, another mft/3, and a new router.

That is only $1800.00. Better call Uncle Bob and place my order.

[Leo G]

I use the manual one out in the field with an electric DeWalt drill. Still quick. The only reason I ended up getting the Foreman is I hurt my shoulder slipping on some ice and landed on my elbow which transferred all the shock to my shoulder. I had a melamine kitchen to make and had about 2000 pocket holes to drill. No way I was gonna do that a manual jig and my shoulder killing me like it was. Now I have it forever. Great little tool. Just about the same price as the domino.

[J F]

Didn't read it all darcy (sue me http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/Jay123_bucket/Smileys/af5e074a.gif) , but this is what I did in the crackerjack palace...our home)....very small home 1000 sq. ft. maybe, only hall way.

http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/Jay123_bucket/work/7b4176a1.jpg

[Leo G]

Go back and read the posts Jay. Do it.

NOW!!

:laugh3:

[WarnerConstInc.]

Yeah, that is a sweet set-up for use in a shop.
Being nomadic like I am, I bought the cheap little one.

Now I might have to buy the bigger one with the clamp and dust extractor hook up.
I could mount it right to one of my mft's and have at it.

Just trying to be as productive as possible, the giant living room with 4 1/4 crown will eat up a ton of time. There is also not enough free space to set up inside so I must walk in and out.

[Bodger]

Nice hallway Jay. The hardware makes it look even better.

Is that a crawlspace access panel down at the end of the hall ceiling?

[Leo G]

So you are thinking of the K4? The one I have I'm not even sure if they make it anymore. It is the two hole version that you need to clamp on the pc.

[WarnerConstInc.]

That is just applied over the sheetrock right J?

I would consider that if I wasn't replacing all the door casing and they wanted to cut some costs but, as of now there shall be no penny pinching.

[Leo G]

The closest one they have to mine is this (http://www.kregtool.com/Kreg-Jigreg-Jr-Prodview.html)

I suppose you would be looking at this one (http://www.kregtool.com/Kreg-Jigreg-Master-System-Prodview.html)?

[WarnerConstInc.]

So you are thinking of the K4? The one I have I'm not even sure if they make it anymore. It is the two hole version that you need to clamp on the pc.

The K4, I could go with the K3MS.

http://www.kregtool.com/Kreg-Jigreg-Prodview.html

http://www.kregtool.com/Kreg-Jigreg-Master-System-Prodview.html

Or I could get this for the beaded rails and styles:

http://www.kregtool.com/Precision-Beaded-FaceFrame-System-Prodview.html


Piss on it, I am going to use a hand saw and some hand pound finish nails.
I am going to kick it old school.:laugh3:

[WarnerConstInc.]

The closest one they have to mine is this (http://www.kregtool.com/Kreg-Jigreg-Jr-Prodview.html)

I suppose you would be looking at this one (http://www.kregtool.com/Kreg-Jigreg-Master-System-Prodview.html)?

The K4, I could go with the K3MS.

http://www.kregtool.com/Kreg-Jigreg-Prodview.html

http://www.kregtool.com/Kreg-Jigreg-Master-System-Prodview.html

Or I could get this for the beaded rails and styles:

http://www.kregtool.com/Precision-Beaded-FaceFrame-System-Prodview.html


Piss on it, I am going to use a hand saw and some hand pound finish nails.
I am going to kick it old school.:laugh3:

Get outta my head Man!!

I have the first one, it is great for here and there work but too slow for anything more then a few holes here and there.

[J F]

Nice hallway Jay. The hardware makes it look even better.

Is that a crawlspace access panel down at the end of the hall ceiling?

Gracias...and yeah, the new hinges, door handles made for a nice change in our little house...and yep, that's attic access down the hall.

[QUOTE=WarnerConstInc.;87610]That is just applied over the sheetrock right J?

Yep, "shadow boxes", is how I refer to it...added chair rail and base moulding "boxes". Dressed this little bi-otch up. http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/Jay123_bucket/Smileys/f828bcec.gif

[Bodger]

Gracias...and yeah, the new hinges, door handles made for a nice change in our little house...and yep, that's attic access down the hall.

[QUOTE=WarnerConstInc.;87610]That is just applied over the sheetrock right J?

Yep, "shadow boxes", is how I refer to it...added chair rail and base moulding "boxes". Dressed this little bi-otch up. http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/Jay123_bucket/Smileys/f828bcec.gif


If I recall, you've got a good sized yard. I'll take that over interior space any day.

[Leo G]

Get outta my head Man!!

I have the first one, it is great for here and there work but too slow for anything more then a few holes here and there.

Once I get in.......:smash:

[J F]

Here's a drawing from awhile back (never got the contract to build)...

http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/Jay123_bucket/work/dd3a9afb.jpg

[WarnerConstInc.]

I need a program like that.

[J F]

I need a program like that.

It is helpful. http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/Jay123_bucket/Smileys/f828bcec.gif

[WarnerConstInc.]

It is helpful. http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/Jay123_bucket/Smileys/f828bcec.gif

And expensive I bet.

[Leo G]

Yet he doesn't tell you what it is...:rolleyes3:

[WarnerConstInc.]

Yet he doesn't tell you what it is...:rolleyes3:

I have always known he was a prick like that.:laugh3:

[J F]

http://www.chiefarchitect.com/products/premier/

What I've got is $2,2k currently...but, look what leo and others do with no-cost software...I got (and have updated over the years) chief due to what I was doing work-wise, full basement finishes (80-150K+), so I needed the capabilities of the full program.

A lot can be done nowadays without the cost.

[Leo G]

If you want to struggle through sketch up it can produce good looking pics.

[WarnerConstInc.]

Goggle sketch-up kind of sucks and that is about the only thing I have messed with.

What are some good low-cost options?

I know a few students, any thing out there offer a discount for a "student"?

[Bodger]

I'd pay $2000 not to have to sit and learn how to use those damn programs. I gave up on e-cabs pretty quick. I know it's only 80 hours or so to get a good handle on it.
But as soon as I did, I'd probably not use it for a couple of months and damn near have to start over.

SketchUp is all I can handle, and I even suck at that.

[J F]

[QUOTE=J F;87614]

If I recall, you've got a good sized yard. I'll take that over interior space any day.


It keeps us happy for now. http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/Jay123_bucket/Smileys/b1e714f2.gif

http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/Jay123_bucket/Smileys/b1e714f2.gif

http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/Jay123_bucket/Yard/07a1a764.jpg

Old, pic...but, we get lots of love/peace/joy keepin' the shiite up

[J F]

the "redneck" was for elsewhere...but it's funny still

[Bodger]

I'd settle for some Wait A Minute vines and F*#k You lizards. All I got is concrete.

[Leo G]

I'd pay $2000 not to have to sit and learn how to use those damn programs. I gave up on e-cabs pretty quick. I know it's only 80 hours or so to get a good handle on it.
But as soon as I did, I'd probably not use it for a couple of months and damn near have to start over.

SketchUp is all I can handle, and I even suck at that.

You never even asked me one question on how use eCabs. I am very disappointed in you grasshopper.:)

[Leo G]

the "redneck" was for elsewhere...but it's funny still

I found that elsewhere....:smash:

[Bodger]

If I look real close, will I see where you buried Tulsa? :laugh3:

http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/Jay123_bucket/Smileys/b1e714f2.gif

http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/Jay123_bucket/Smileys/b1e714f2.gif

http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/Jay123_bucket/Yard/07a1a764.jpg

[/QUOTE]

[Bodger]

You never even asked me one question on how use eCabs. I am very disappointed in you grasshopper.:)


I became overwhelmed immediately. I will never take the pebble from your hand.
I am not worthy.

[J F]

http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/Jay123_bucket/Smileys/sidewaysmileys-1-1-1-1-1-1.gif there's a real nice sunflower comin' up in the spot...looks right nice in front of the crepe myrtle this time of the year http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/Jay123_bucket/Smileys/f828bcec.gif

[Leo G]

Hitting the hay. This was fun :smash:

[J F]

..the ole' farts always have to turn in early... :grin:

[Leo G]

Gotta busy 70 hour week brewing, might have to kick it to 80 if I don't get what I need done for Friday.

[J F]

quit braggin' :grin:


























I gotta ton of laundry and dishes to do. http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv135/Jay123_bucket/Smileys/af5e074a.gif

[Leo G]

You get that Domino yet? How about that router. I need a new one and I'd like good dust collection. Which basically leave Festool. But which one? I don't need the huge one, but that is the only one that seems to have the nice dust collection.

Oh master of Festool, which is the one for me :laugh3:

[WarnerConstInc.]

You get that Domino yet? How about that router. I need a new one and I'd like good dust collection. Which basically leave Festool. But which one? I don't need the huge one, but that is the only one that seems to have the nice dust collection.

Oh master of Festool, which is the one for me :laugh3:

What size shank bits will use in it?

And what are you planning on using it for?

If you sneak into the FOG, look for the thread called cold feet, that has some great info on what routers guys use for what tasks.

All the routers have darn good chip collection and dust collection.

[neolitic]

Leo's a real man,
1/2" shanks of course!

[WarnerConstInc.]

Leo's a real man,
1/2" shanks of course!

Their OF 1400 will accept 8mm, 1/4", 1/2" and I think one more size.

The 1010 will do 8mm and 1/4" and is a very light versatile router.

The 2200 is just a beast but, will accept all shanks up to 1/2".

Then their is the MFK 700 which is a sweet little trim router with a bunch of different bases.

I will probably get the OF 1400, although I keep looking at the 1010.

[Leo G]

1/4" and 1/2", general use router

[WarnerConstInc.]

I would get the OF 1400 then, it is a great all around router.

The ratcheting spindle is a sweet set-up as well.

Their edge guide is great too.

Some people don't like the limited visibility with the chip extractor hooked to the router but, they have center line reference marks on all sides of the router.

It is very smooth, no vibrations at all.

[Leo G]

On my new machine for making slots in cabinet sides I have no real way to use a vacuum right now. Cutting MDF and it sucks. Dust everywhere

[WarnerConstInc.]

On my new machine for making slots in cabinet sides I have no real way to use a vacuum right now. Cutting MDF and it sucks. Dust everywhere

On that sled thingy you made?

The 1400 should do a great job on that and be able to have dust extraction.

I say buy it, use it and if it does not work out well for you, take it back before the 30 days is up.

Their multi-position depth stop turret is really nice too.

Hope you like metric depth scales though.

[Leo G]

I hate metric

Can you cut off 13/16 of a centimeter.

[WarnerConstInc.]

I hate metric

Can you cut off 13/16 of a centimeter.

I know but, I am beyond it now.

I know what the metric measurements are for what I am cutting.

The TS-55 made me get over that real quick.

The trick that they showed me at festool is to use a gauge block to set your depth on the stop turret.

[J F]

I've got 'em both (1400 and domino...don't tell the gooberment :grin:).

I've used the domino a fair bit, and love it. The 1400 hasn't been put through its paces, I've only had it for 2 years :rolleyes3:.

I've used my TS 55 a fair bit too...I STILL hate metric. :smash: