Painting question

[WarnerConstInc.]

OK, I will try to be short and to the point.

Trying to get our bedroom done before baby is here (5 weeks might not be enough time for a home project)

Stipped all window casings, Ash.
Fixed all 120 years worth of nail holes.
Getting ready to replace my window stops and pull out my orginal sashes.

I'm going to pull the glass, strip the paint.

I know I need to use oil primer before I re-glaze.
I hate oil primer, I hate smelling it all day.

My question:

Can I just hit the edge where the glass sits for the glazing, or should I do the whole sash?

I have storms that stay on all year, for now.
I have aquired some old wood storms that are the same size and will eventually have wood storms and screens. (hopefully)

So, should I do the whole sash in oil and the exterior part of the window jamb as well?

Or is there something else I should use.

I have a couple gallons of SW multi-purpose latex primer.

[Dusty]

Since you have it torn apart and have all the materials out you might as well hit the whole sash. It should take a whole 3 minutes. If it's a multi pane, 9 min.

[GoogleGirl]

OK, I will try to be short and to the point.

Trying to get our bedroom done before baby is here (5 weeks might not be enough time for a home project)

Stipped all window casings, Ash.
Fixed all 120 years worth of nail holes.
Getting ready to replace my window stops and pull out my orginal sashes.

I'm going to pull the glass, strip the paint.

I know I need to use oil primer before I re-glaze.
I hate oil primer, I hate smelling it all day.

My question:

Can I just hit the edge where the glass sits for the glazing, or should I do the whole sash?

I have storms that stay on all year, for now.
I have aquired some old wood storms that are the same size and will eventually have wood storms and screens. (hopefully)

So, should I do the whole sash in oil and the exterior part of the window jamb as well?

Or is there something else I should use.

I have a couple gallons of SW multi-purpose latex primer.

This should make you feel good:
I have utterly NO clue what you are talking about.

[WarnerConstInc.]

I was going to prime the whole sash. Just hate sniffing oil primer all day, be much quicker to do the oil in just the have to spots.

Fine, oil prime whole sash.

Only takes about 10 mins per sash to pull them and remove the glass. About another 10 to sand each one.

[Dusty]

It won't be that bad. Paint the sashes outside before you put it back together. I prefer this method because if there are multipul layers of paint I can adjust the trim that holds the window in place if needed. And nonpainters tend to paint their windows shut.

[WarnerConstInc.]

Are you saying I am a non-painter?

I beat all heck getting these old windows to work, no way would go through all this effort and paint them shut.

I could take to my buddies shop and hit them in the spray booth.

[Dusty]

I think you know exactly what to do. Your just posting to get out of doing it.

[Workaholic]

Are you saying I am a non-painter?

I beat all heck getting these old windows to work, no way would go through all this effort and paint them shut.

I could take to my buddies shop and hit them in the spray booth.
How many windows are we talking about?

[WarnerConstInc.]

In above mentioned room, 4.

Total for the house, 14.

[WarnerConstInc.]

yeah but, that says interior.

[Allrounder]

http://base.cygnuspub.com/images/Products/QUR/2008/Dec/300x300/ZINSSERCoInc_BullsEyeHighHideO_QUR_6928.png


No odor,

This is NOT an exterior primer--use BM 100, or exterior oil house primer in whatever brand you prefer

[neolitic]

yeah but, that says interior.

CoverStain works great, dries fast.
(thumb up)

:2thumbsup: This guy looks like he's
flipping a double bird. :rolleyes3:

[Decoman]

BM 100 would be my suggestion as well.

[Decoman]

CoverStain works great, dries fast.
(thumb up)

:2thumbsup: This guy looks like he's
flipping a double bird. :rolleyes3:

Cover stain would work as well for that app.. we have given up on cover stain for cedar tho it dries to fast and brittle and pops with any signs of moisture. We went back to slow dry oils for as long as we can get them that is.

[neolitic]

I can say from ugly experience
you always want oil under oil glazing.
No idea about latex glazing, but I
might be finding out soon.

[WarnerConstInc.]

I can say from ugly experience
you always want oil under oil glazing.
No idea about latex glazing, but I
might be finding out soon.

I know I need oil under it, just have to do the whole sashes in it then. I got some bin oil primer in the basement.

They have latex glazing now?

[WarnerConstInc.]

I thought you were worried about the interior, on the exterior just use Cover Stain and stop crying

You could quit being a bum and just come up and do the painting. I'll teach you all the prep and repair work.

[Dusty]

The multi-purpose will work just fine. These guys are just going to confuse you with their favorites.

[Workaholic]

Just lure Modern over to your place with a case of beer and the idea that your wife has a cute friend. Before he leaves tell him to bring his work van and then put his ass to work.

[WarnerConstInc.]

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/85/85bb6b6d-2891-4fa0-909a-7b07a8e3dafa_400.jpg


I have at least a gallon of this.

I just didn't want to have to use the shellac based stuff.

I got srayed in the face with that stuff once, I dont remember how long before the ammonia smell wore off.

[Decoman]

wrong picture.
I have at least a gallon of this.

I just didn't want to have to use the shellac based stuff.

I got srayed in the face with that stuff once, I dont remember how long before the ammonia smell wore off.

That would not last as long as a regular oil base primer IMO shellac is even more brittle and doesn't hold up well on exterior stuff. Spot priming knots is all its good for outside.

[Decoman]

These guys are just going to confuse you with their favorites.


BM 100 is good but I said any slow drying oil will work and would be better than any quick dry stuff.

[WarnerConstInc.]

I have tried the glazing in a tube, didnt care for it. I made a big mess, too much comes out. Never had much practice with the tubes any way.

[Dusty]

Zinsser is horrible stuff. Do not use that.
Sounds like your sensitive to paint chemicals.
Why don't you go to SW or BM and talk to them. I think SW also sells glazing. They can match up products for the best results. They have also come out with some new "greener" products that may better suit your needs. Just a thought

[WarnerConstInc.]

Is the new picture ok?

Bin was the wrong one, sorry. I have some of that crap too, just primed my parents bathroom with it. On a positive note, my Festool dust extractor is also a clean air filter. Almost no odor.

[WarnerConstInc.]

Zinsser is horrible stuff. Do not use that.
Sounds like your sensitive to paint chemicals.
Why don't you go to SW or BM and talk to them. I think SW also sells glazing. They can match up products for the best results. They have also come out with some new "greener" products that may better suit your needs. Just a thought

Zinnsser is bad, ok. I will pour it out back with the used motor oil and tranny fluid and antifreeze.

The fumes screw up my natural buzz.

I will hit the local paint store and see what they have/say.

They carry Dutch Standard, its made in Ohio.

[Decoman]

Zinsser is horrible stuff. Do not use that.
Sounds like your sensitive to paint chemicals.
Why don't you go to SW or BM and talk to them. I think SW also sells glazing. They can match up products for the best results. They have also come out with some new "greener" products that may better suit your needs. Just a thought

There is really no better shellac based primer than BIN... I agree Zinsser has gotten a little diy but still their primers are still pretty superior to large paint company's that don't specialize in primers and just have them on the shelf for sack of having too.

[WarnerConstInc.]

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/images/snippets/products/coatings/ExtOBWoodPrim.jpg


This looks like what I need.

[Dusty]

My SW guys are great. I don't deal with the Rep. I deal with the manager and the assistant manager.

[WarnerConstInc.]

I will see what they have down town. I think I remember seeing them having a primer like this.

SW multi purpose latex primer is nice. Spendy for primer 26 bucks or 28.

[Eieio]

My ICI rep is the best, everyone in towns knows he is the best at matching any stains or paints. The dude lives at his store, his family never see him, but he knows every product they carry from front to back.
The problem I have with ICI though is no brand recognition with the public and the fact that my discount seems to change from store to store. I have actually called in some Gripper primer and had almost a $50 difference in price from the 2 local stores.

Had that happen to me at SW stores,. They were like 8 blocks away from each other wtf

[RCP]

I just recently started buying more paint and things from SW, when I asked my sales rep about primers he kinda seemed rather dumb on the subject, whicj is kinda making me shy away from any of their stuff at this point untill I talk to guys who are more in the know.

We have tried several and not real happy. Our rep said they have a new formula (part of the Southwest Builders line that we love), going to demo us 60 gal for an upcoming job.

[Workaholic]

You should listen to Deco and use a slow drying oil primer. It will not dry so fast and will be a harder material. Latex is a crap shoot might work or it might just bleed through.

[RCP]

When you tell them something sucks then it has always been reformulated recently, thats seems to be the first thing they teach them to say, "If the customers says our stuff sucks, tell them it is a new formula and hope they buy into it"
I got into an argument about A-100 with a SW manager because I told him I dont care how much corn or peanuts you add, it is still a turd.

Have you used any of the Southwest Builders?