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Woodbore
November 4th, 2010, 01:07 PM
14 interior, builders grade, 6 panel doors - gaps under doors range from 3/4 to 2 3/8" where previous owner cut them. In the quotes I`ve gotten the "fix" involves using either MDF, pine, fir, plywood and either nailing, glueing and screwing or biscuits and screwing. Needless to say I would like the most unnoticeable remedy. Anyone run across this before and/or what would you recommend?

Eieio
November 4th, 2010, 01:12 PM
Are the doors Hallow Core units?

JasonW
November 4th, 2010, 01:20 PM
A few pictures would be very helpful. In any repair, using "like" materials is the key to it lasting.

Woodbore
November 4th, 2010, 01:22 PM
NO, 30-something yr old, builders grade solid

Eieio
November 4th, 2010, 01:24 PM
NO, 30-something yr old, builders grade solid

Sorry I forgot to ask, what are the doors made out of? I assume Pine..

Are they going to be painted or Stained?

OGStilts
November 4th, 2010, 03:15 PM
Are the doors Hallow Core units?

What exactly is a Hallow door? Is that the type of door you would find on a church? :grin:

Silvertree
November 4th, 2010, 04:03 PM
I would cut 2 1/2 inches off each door and then glue and screw the extensions on.

Make it show on purpose, to make it blend would cost more than new doors.

My .02 cents.

DavidC
November 4th, 2010, 04:34 PM
What exactly is a Hallow door? Is that the type of door you would find on a church? :grin:

I guess they're big in the DC area. :>)

Good Luck
Dave

JasonW
November 4th, 2010, 04:56 PM
I think Paul has a good point. Make sure you're not trying to add little scabs of wood on the bottom of the door. I think I would go with about 3" at least maybe 4 depending on how thick the bottom rail is.

Don't just take a piece of wood and add it across the bottom of the door either. You have side rails that are going vertically and a bottom rail that is horizontal. You should add to that in the same fashion. I would cut off the bottom of the doors at about a 30 to 45 degree angle so you get a wider glue surface. The side pieces to the bottom rail should be a tongue and grove joint, but not glued together there.

This wood WILL expand and contract and so will the door. Put it together so it all moves together like it should and it will last a lifetime.

A quick sketch...

JasonW
November 4th, 2010, 05:09 PM
The same idea of movement was used here when I replaced the back side of these groves on this early 17th century door.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs005.snc4/33598_450752121235_366046046235_5251834_6791725_n. jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs025.snc4/33598_450752126235_366046046235_5251835_1254306_n. jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs420.ash2/69836_452080651235_366046046235_5269571_1543457_n. jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs451.ash2/72397_454233376235_366046046235_5318725_4300958_n. jpg