Concrete counter top, start to finish

[DavidC]

Contract is signed and we must wait for the cabinets to be set before making a template. In the meantime I have to zero in on the color and effects with the client. First step is a couple of batches of samples.

The forms are built upside down and backwards for the ultimate pour. The samples are simply 8" squares, so no headaches yet.

We use melamine for the surface (bottom of form) and sides if they are to be square edge or camfered. This top will have a bullnose edge so we'll use a rubber mold for that. The samples are only 3/4" thick so the edge form is stock pine.

Caulking the joint were the form bottom and sides meet is an important step. Primarily it prevents the water from running out, leaving a too dry concrete mix. It also can be shaped to form a slightly rounded edge. There's a tool for that;

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1663.jpg

Neat consistent line and the excess cleans up easily after curing.

Forms are built, caulked and cured. It's important to let the caulk cure at least overnight, skinning over is not good enough. (or so I've heard) The caulk is 100% silicone. Would have been better for the pics if I used dark color but it matters not to the concrete.

Good Luck
Dave

[Leo G]

I assume that is the test sample setup you are showing there?

[DavidC]

Yes. I've got it built to make 2 sets of samples.

Note to self; check your aggregate size when using 3/4" deep forms.

One set will be white which I'm trying for my own curiosity. I bought bagged marble chips for gravel and some of the stones are an inch or more diameter. Never thought about it until I was filling the forms.

The other set is for the clients to view. Aiming for a color named Pebble. Each set has different colored glass bits in the surface.

They come out in 3 days.

Good Luck
Dave

[DavidC]

There will be another set to pour but I'm waiting on the dye to come in. Willow green. That should be interesting.

Also trying another experiment while I'm at it, but I'll wait to see how that turns out before saying too much. It might just disappear mysteriously.

Good Luck
Dave

[Winchester]

Can't wait for photos of the finished test pieces.

I'd be interested in the costs of doing this. I'd love to try it in my own place :2thumbsup:
Self-taught or did you attend a training session?

[DavidC]

So far my knowledge is the result of reading, videos and forums similar to this one. I've been playing with the materials for a few years now.

As far as doing it yourself, I would say that it is within the skill set of many. The materials cost may surprise you, it's not the same concrete you order for a slab or sidewalk. But it's not prohibitive either. You can buy a bagged mix that works for most basic stuff @ about 3x what you'll pay for your sono tube fills.

It is labor intensive to produce, there is a lot of wait time and you invest a bit of heart and soul into each piece.

Good Luck
Dave

[naptownCr]

So far my knowledge is the result of reading, videos and forums similar to this one. I've been playing with the materials for a few years now.

As far as doing it yourself, I would say that it is within the skill set of many. The materials cost may surprise you, it's not the same concrete you order for a slab or sidewalk. But it's not prohibitive either. You can buy a bagged mix that works for most basic stuff @ about 3x what you'll pay for your sono tube fills.

It is labor intensive to produce, there is a lot of wait time and you invest a bit of heart and soul into each piece.
Good Luck
Dave

What's the goiong rate for that?

[DavidC]

/\Supposedly I was to become a great guitar player. :^(

Be careful who you strike bargains with.

Good Luck
Dave

[DavidC]

Forms have been sealed and cleaned. Concrete is photographic, anything in the form will be reproduced so a clean start is essential.

Various colored glass has been added to some of the forms. For each sample color I like to add the glass to show possible variations. Also there are specifically 2 forms left blank to show the color with no additions. One will be ground to expose the aggregate and the other will be simply polished for sheen.

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1668.jpg

First color is Peeble. It looks a bit gray still because the concrete is very fresh in this pic. Hopefully the color will come out truer as it cures.

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1671-1.jpg

I miss calculated the amount needed for the white sample. If I had done that with a final pour I would have to panic. Instead, for samples, I prioritized.

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1672-1.jpg

The weather is cool, highs today in the mid 20's, and the shop is unheated. Curing takes place under an electric blanket. I'll keep the shop closed up to keep an edge on the outside temps.

Good Luck
Dave

[Leo G]

It doesn't look like you screeded the back side. Will you do that with the real McCoy so it has a flat back? What do you use to vibrate the concrete so it flattens out and gets rid of any bubbles.

I saw a show where they were making concrete countertops and it was cool what the vibrator would do. They would pour the concrete in the center of the mold and turn on the vibrator and the concrete just flattened out and filled the forms. Like a solid turning liquid. It was cool.

[DavidC]

These pieces are so small that I didn't vibrate other than to stab them with the edge of a flat trowel and press them in. And you're right in that I didn't screed them either, just roughly smoothed them with the same trowel. I'll touch the back sides with the grinder to flatten them when I get to that step. Scraping the backs while still green helps a lot also. Just finished doing that in fact.

I do expect some little bug holes that will need to be filled later. But that is part of the normal process and helps to create the look. Even the pieces I vibrate will have some.

I wouldn't dare skip either when forming and pouring the real piece. For vibrating I use a dedicated recip saw with a scraper blade. The blade is just for extra weight and the saw is run outside the form.

There was one test batch I made that I thought was too dry to fill the form properly. When I set it in the middle of the form it looked like elephant dung. I vibrated and it flowed ever so nice, came out smooth as glass. (I should confess that the form bottom for that test was glass.)

Good Luck
Dave

[naptownCr]

Your counters look remarkably like ice stone. Any patent problems with them?

[DavidC]

I think Ice Stone is more of glass and epoxy surface set on concrete. At any rate, it would be tough to claim a patent for filling forms with concrete, even with the glass.

I am guilty of not researching this or even asking myself the question. It certainly is not an original idea.

Good Luck
Dave

[Blue]

You call this mix concrete. That is a very, very generic term of course. It could mean anything.

Do you buy the bags at Home Depot or are you like Donald Trump and have a secret mix for this.

[JasonW]

Looking good Dave. I may have to bug you a bit this summer when I finish up my kitchen. My island and another section set off to itself are wood tops but I'm thinking about concrete for the main area.

[DavidC]

You call this mix concrete. That is a very, very generic term of course. It could mean anything.

Do you buy the bags at Home Depot or are you like Donald Trump and have a secret mix for this.

Most will agree, I think, that concrete is a blend of portland cement, sand, gravel and sometimes other ingredients.

My preference is to blend our own mix. Right now I'm using a very basic recipe out of a popular book. As my education continues and I make adjustments I will keep the little things to myself rather than share publicly.

I have used and will use for the next project a bag mix specifically for counter tops. The reason is the weather. My sand and gravel piles where under 2' of snow until recently and I don't have room for more deliveries until spring. The piles are tarped, but that seems to be of no concern for the moisture that found it's way in.

Dye is measured in proportion to the portland content and you don't really know how much is in a bag mix. They don't share their recipes.

Looking good Dave. I may have to bug you a bit this summer when I finish up my kitchen. My island and another section set off to itself are wood tops but I'm thinking about concrete for the main area.

It would be my pleasure to offer what I can to you when you're ready. Same goes for other RC members as well.

Good Luck
Dave

[orson]

I helped do a set of concrete tops on one occasion.

We tied rebar in the counters and poured them pretty thick if I recall, 3 or 4 inches.

How thick must you make the tops? Do you put rebar in them?

[DavidC]

Ours are 1 1/2" thick with 5x5 mesh. weighing in at about 20lbs./ sq. ft.

Good Luck
Dave

[Leo G]

Haven't seen a 1 1/2" countertop in a while. Mostly 3cm (1 1/8"). Haven't had a laminate countertop put on any of my cabs in decades

[naptownCr]

3 CM= 3 cm = 1.18110 in
There is a tolerance however and 1 1/4" is the norm for planning purposes

[naptownCr]

Haven't seen a 1 1/2" countertop in a while. Mostly 3cm (1 1/8"). Haven't had a laminate countertop put on any of my cabs in decades

Actually a laminate counter top would be 1 9/16" considering 1 1/2" for substrate if it was the normal 3/4 particle board and 1/16 for the laminate if horizontal grade. Ifbuilt out of plywood it would be closer to 1 1/12 inch

[Leo G]

That is before grinding and polishing. By the time they are placed on the cabs they are under 1 3/16" and closer to 1 1/8". I always set it up for 1 1/4" by making my cabs 34 3/4" tall.

[Leo G]

Actually a laminate counter top would be 1 9/16" considering 1 1/2" for substrate if it was the normal 3/4 particle board and 1/16 for the laminate if horizontal grade. Ifbuilt out of plywood it would be closer to 1 1/12 inch

Yep, you sir are correct about that.:grin:

[naptownCr]

Damm Leo all I got aroun the house is Corian tops.
Otherwise I would argue about the thickness of granite. I will go to my fabricator on Monday with Calipers in hand to check the average thickness realizing that some stone is thicker than others. OK that completely defeats the purpose so never mind.

[naptownCr]

That is before grinding and polishing. By the time they are placed on the cabs they are under 1 3/16" and closer to 1 1/8". I always set it up for 1 1/4" by making my cabs 34 3/4" tall.

Then we are on agreement as to the nominal thickness of 1 1/4" for planning or layout purposes?

[Leo G]

Is your corian 3/4" with a built up edge or the thinner stuff with a double built edge and supported by MDF?

[Leo G]

Then we are on agreement as to the nominal thickness of 1 1/4" for planning or layout purposes?

Ya, I'm not making my cabinets 34 7/8" tall. That would be too much thinking :laugh3:

[naptownCr]

Is your corian 3/4" with a built up edge or the thinner stuff with a double built edge and supported by MDF?

I had to cut a piece or two and it is 1/2" corian with 1" ply built up at the edge to 1 1/2" and with a full bullnose.
I HATE a full bullnose but havent the time or means at present to change over to granite.
I am tired of anything spilled on the counter filling the drawers.

[naptownCr]

Nitey night Leo I am going to bed!

[DavidC]

I guess I should have used the term "nominal thickness".

Good Luck
Dave

[Leo G]

Nitey night Leo I am going to bed!

How rude of me...I went to bed before you and didn't tell you :mad2:

[Leo G]

I guess I should have used the term "nominal thickness".

Good Luck
Dave

I hate the term "nominal thickness". It means plywood can be 11/16" instead of 3/4". They also call 5mm ply 1/4" and it is slightly under 3/16.

When using my programs to make cab parts I have to go through the list and correct for nominal thickness. It varies from batch to batch and even within batches. The only plywood I find to be 3/4" thick is exterior non-sanded plywoods.

[DavidC]

Cheng might be the most well known counter top guru. He likes his tops to be 2"-3" thick.

Took the samples out of the molds yesterday. The white ones are great, the pebble not so much. Five out of six have broken. The one survivor is a solid color with no glass. The color looks pretty good for what I was aiming for so I'll finish processing that and hope it doesn't fall apart.

Got to run right now, I'll get pics up before I start grinding a little later.

Good Luck
Dave

[Winchester]

Cheng might be the most well known counter top guru. He likes his tops to be 2"-3" thick.

Took the samples out of the molds yesterday. The white ones are great, the pebble not so much. Five out of six have broken. The one survivor is a solid color with no glass. The color looks pretty good for what I was aiming for so I'll finish processing that and hope it doesn't fall apart.

Got to run right now, I'll get pics up before I start grinding a little later.

Good Luck
Dave

http://www.straightrazorplace.com/forums/attachments/razors/28705d1249474228-my-new-straight-razor-stand-44789.-thread-completely-useless-without-images-1-.jpg

[DavidC]

http://www.straightrazorplace.com/forums/attachments/razors/28705d1249474228-my-new-straight-razor-stand-44789.-thread-completely-useless-without-images-1-.jpg

My bad. The camera got left in my sons van, I should have it back this morning and will make it up to you.

Good Luck
Dave

[DavidC]

Presenting, the surviving samplesssss!

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1673.jpg

A pair of plain whites. One will be ground to expose the aggregate;

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1674.jpg

One with tempered glass bits;

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1675.jpg

Good Luck
Dave

[DavidC]

And a couple more;

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1677.jpg

The only one of the set that was really needed;

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1676.jpg

The grinding will wait until the next set comes out so I don't have to set up twice. That and wet grinding in single digit temps is not all that exciting to me.

In the pebble sample you can see the bug holes that will need to be filled. Grinding usually reveals more just below the surface. The white ones came out pretty dang smooth and blemish free, but I know better and expect some holes while grinding.

Good Luck
Dave

[DavidC]

Today brings and interesting twist. The client is ordering different items off the internet to add to the counter top. Things like sea shells, mirrored bits, etc. It will mean making more samples so she can see how they look.

Not a bad thing in my mind.

Good Luck
Dave

[bert0168]

I'm a little curious, and assume you do it, but how do you set pricing for these samples?

Seems like there is a load of labor and materials involved just in making all these samples.

[DavidC]

I'm a little curious, and assume you do it, but how do you set pricing for these samples?

Seems like there is a load of labor and materials involved just in making all these samples.

Materials for a set of samples only amounts to the equivalant of <1/3 a bag of mix. The forms are good for a few uses with some cleaning. Eventually the melamine will find a way to absorb some water and swell, then it's off to the dumpster. So material cost isn't bad.

The big investment is the time. I'll have 4-6 hours total in a set of samples by the time they are finished. I'll throw in another set of forms to try an experiment at the same time just to see what else I can do. It adds time but is more efficient use of it. I don't worry about charging for the extra time because it's for me, not the client.

I tried pouring over leaves for example. Came out with near perfect impressions. Unfortunately it was with the bad batch that crumbled apart.

Eventually I will have a wide variety of samples for discussing ideas with prospects. No problem for me to absorb the cost of some extras as long as I'm making a set anyway.

Each quote assumes a set of samples to submit for approval before the final pour. I'm o.k. with a second set if the first is refused. After that I may have to consider an additional charge. So far the first set has been enough.

Good Luck
Dave

[DavidC]

BTW, I took the problem of the crumbly mix to another forum for concrete counter tops. The answer seems to lie in the likelihood of a bad bag that came from a major supplier of a variety of bagged products. The explanation was a bit lengthy and covered the manufacturing and grading process.

Bottom line recommendation was to avoid specialty mixes (counter top mix) from the major companies. Either use a scratch mix for maximum user control or go with a mix from a smaller outfit that specializes in that. Buddy Rhodes was mentioned, but there are others also.

Good Luck
Dave

[DavidC]

I was able to pick up the willow green dye yesterday, forms are ready and waiting so I'll mix and fill after lunch.

It was a little early but I needed to get them out of the way. The pebble and buff samples are out;

Pebble first.
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1679.jpg

And Buff.
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1678.jpg

Both are still holding a bit of moisture so they are expected to lighten up more. Once the willow pieces come out (Monday) it will be time to start grinding.

Good Luck
Dave

[DavidC]

Willow Green is out of the forms;

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1683.jpg

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1684.jpg

Grinding is scheduled to start today. Off to a couple of appointments now so I'm sure it will be a late start.

Good Luck
Dave

[kevjob]

Nice Dave, I like the green ones, myself, total hours from samples to install?

[naptownCr]

What is that caveman looking tool in one of the pictures?

[DavidC]

What is that caveman looking tool in one of the pictures?

You mean my maple mallet? Came from a tree I cut down a few years ago.

No grinding today. The grinder is all apart and I just took a Fukitol.

Good Luck
Dave

[kornerking]

So Dave , do you grout these little pieces together then?

[Leo G]

You mean my maple mallet? Came from a tree I cut down a few years ago.

No grinding today. The grinder is all apart and I just took a Fukitol.

Good Luck
Dave

http://www.gatorswearjeanshorts.net/blog/uploaded_images/fukitol-728508.jpg

[DavidC]

Sample grinding is done. Wet grinding with temps in the 30's keeps you motivated. Windchill and water make for cold fingers and toes.

All of them;

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1700.jpg

Willow Green;

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1701.jpg

Peeble;

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1702.jpg

Green and pebble were the client requested colors. They are considering one color for the main counter and the other for the island.

Good Luck
Dave

[DavidC]

I got the slurry coat on the samples today. It has a way of making them ugly again, but is a necessary step. Next step is to let them dry and sand with a 220 grit in the RO sander. That works well if I don't let them cure too long, otherwise it's back to the wet grinder.

In this pic you can also see where I'm playing with some different colors.

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1706.jpg

[bert0168]

WOW those ground samples look amazing.

What's the purpose of the slurry, to fill small voids?

[DavidC]

Grinding exposes little pinholes beneath the surface. The slurry seals them up and gives a very smooth surface.

Good Luck
Dave

[Rock8Reno]

Pretty neat, looking good, not a fan of the green though.

[DavidC]

Nice Dave, I like the green ones, myself, total hours from samples to install?

I'm not ignoring you, just still tabulating.

My camera got hijacked for a few days but I've been busy. These samples have been sealed;

Green (1/2 of the client really likes the green, his wife hasn't seen it yet though)
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1724.jpg

Peeble (I think this one is falling out of favor)
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1723.jpg

Buff (not being considered, just adding to our inventory)
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1725.jpg

White (my new favorite)
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1727.jpg

I have a feeling the white has entered consideration. I left the samples with the client for the weekend to make their selection.

The buff set will probably head to the trash. I'm not liking them at all and they didn't come out right.

Good Luck
Dave

[DavidC]

As long as I'm playing, why not make some pieces for the Home Show?

This will have a fire pit in the center;
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1759.jpg

A form for tomorrows pour, vanity top with integral back splash. We'll use a glass bowl surface mount sink.
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1762.jpg

Good Luck
Dave

[DavidC]

And just for a touch of wild side, the client has purchased a bag of glow in the dark rocks to scatter into the top.

Note to self: Your job is to craft, deliver and install. No one cares if you like it.

Good Luck
Dave

[Rock8Reno]

The white is hot, I take back what I said about the green, the two top left ones are kind of nice.

[DavidC]

The color choice is made. They will go with the natural for the main counter top and shelf, the green for the island. Both will have blue glass and ground to expose the aggregate.

Natural, no dyes added. The color is controlled with sand, gravel and glass choices.
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/Shampine%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1020-2.jpg

Willow Green, same ingredients as natural + green dye.

Good Luck
Dave

[shanekw1]

I really like the white, Dave.

[WarriorWithWood]

Thanks for the thread Dave, I never realized how nice a concrete top can look.

[naptownCr]

Dave
How does pricing on your products compare with Ice stone?
I most definitely like the pact that you can do custom shapes and not have to cut from slabs.

[DavidC]

We are still trying to find our feet on pricing for ours. Right now we are selling at around 85 per sq. ft. Others I talked to around the country indicate the price range is 75-125 and more for really custom work. Some of these guys have turned it into art.

I'm not familiar with Ice Stone prices but a client just got a quote for quartz at 113. I think she'll come back to the concrete camp before she's done.

Formed and poured an island top for our Home Show display today. I bought a set of table legs and will build an apron to hold it. Pics later.

Good Luck
Dave

[DavidC]

Finally, got to make the template today. At least mostly. There will be a few more pieces but I thought it would be best to fit the main parts first and then template the shelf and back splash areas.

Tough angle to photo properly, it's only about 9' long;
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1825.jpg

I bought myself a new glue gun for the occasion and my son couldn't wait to use it. Some things never change.
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1823.jpg

Each piece has it's pertinent details written on it, followed by a review with the client and then they get to sign it to accept it.
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1832.jpg

Good Luck
Dave

[kornerking]

2 corners . I sure hope you left some money on the counter so they can have KK"s

[DavidC]

The window seat has these nortons on each end. They are actually plumbing chases but will now sport decorative concrete caps to match the main counter top.
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1833.jpg

Not many details on these pieces, but everything is noted and then signed by the client.
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1834.jpg

This post dictated the island configuration. I've heard there is a great master plan afoot to decorate it with a textured metal wrap.
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1826.jpg

Tomorrow it's build the forms and clean up the shop a bit. The client wants to stop by and sprinkle their own glass bits and glow in the dark rocks. I am curious what this will look like at night.

A neat thing is they took the old ceiling light fixture and broke it into bits. It will be added to the blue glass so part of the old kitchen will be in the new counter top. I can dig that.

Good Luck
Dave

[DavidC]

2 corners . I sure hope you left some money on the counter so they can have KK"s

Sorry Pete, they have 2 notched lazy susans. Mr. Client went to your website unattended and without my knowledge. When I brought up the KK he declared them too expensive. (I think he was still pissed about the 36" uppers.)

But our salesman had an appointment today for another counter top and a KK quote. Compliments of the Home Show display btw.

Haven't heard how that went yet.

Good Luck
Dave

[DavidC]

The client asked it they could stop in a place their glow in the dark rocks and bits of glass in the forms. I said sure and thought is would be kinda of cool.

The whole family came, Mom, Dad and the two teens. Once the form was turned over to them they spent over an hour putting in their stuff. We had prepared the blue glass per the sample selection but they brought along some colored glass from the old kitchen ceiling globes, a small mirror to smash up, pieces of the copper pipes that have been freezing every year since they bought the house, a favorite beer glass and various coins that have some significant symbolism for each of them. And lets not forget the glow in the dark rocks.

This is truly their counter top now and I think it is way cool.

I can't wait to see it out of the form already. I might bump it up and pour tomorrow instead of Friday. We plan on repeating the process for the island.

I'll get some pics up, but I'm beat tonight.

Good Luck
Dave

[Eieio]

Dave would you go out of town to do a countertop?

[DavidC]

I have figured I could travel a major portion of the state (NY) to do a counter top. Further than that I would worry about commute costs and freight if I need to be competitive.

Good Luck
Dave

[Eieio]

I have figured I could travel a major portion of the state (NY) to do a counter top. Further than that I would worry about commute costs and freight if I need to be competitive.

Good Luck
Dave

I may have one coming up, If it comes through, I will get a quote and send it to you..

[DavidC]

Senor moment. I forgot to post these pics of the clients fun night.

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1836-Copy.jpg

The challenge for me is how to preserve the details in the coins. The client is indifferent so I have artistic license here.

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1839-Copy.jpg

Those are pieces of the old copper pipe from the original kitchen. The blue glass is recycled wine bottles, all other colors are pieces of the clients history in the home.

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1837-Copy.jpg

I hope they don't have photographic memories, most of this will move at least a little before we're done.

Good Luck
Dave

[DavidC]

Fresh out of the forms;

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1852.jpg

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1849.jpg

An experiment on how to handle the coins;

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1843.jpg

It was a good idea but I didn't have the time to tweak it to work well. That's what plan b's are for anyway.

Good Luck
Dave

[DavidC]

And let the grinding begin! That's my son/partner on the grinder. Not sure how he got it out of my hands. Watching the glass and stones, expose themselves as you grind is fascinating to me.

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1857.jpg

For the coins I made clay covers that I can clean out later. This should leave a depression over the coin that I plan on filling with clear epoxy so the details remain intact.

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1872.jpg

Here the colors are showing. Also visible are the "rings" of the copper pipe and bits of sea shells. Not shown is the glow in the dark stones, or at least they show as white here.

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1871.jpg

Good Luck
Dave

[Dusty]

What a fun project. I like it.

[DavidC]

There was an incident regarding this counter top project.

I mistakenly used gray portland for the mix when the color called for white. There has been a nagging feeling while working on this and I finally grabbed the sample tile to compare. I knew right away what had happened.

The client family was in the shop today to seed the island piece and admire the main counter tops. They rubbed it all over, oohed and aahhed a bit as they search for certain bits that each had placed. Overall it was going really great.

Then I asked how they liked the color.

It's very nice, she said. A little darker than I expected said he. I grabbed the sample and laid it on the counter and told them that this is what they selected and I had made a mistake. I offered to remake the project in the right color.

They elect to take it as is. I think their own involvement in making what it is may have helped the decision. Even though I thoroughly enjoy this work, I'm glad to have dodged that bullet. Great clients are good to have.

I'll get some pics up after the last coat of sealer.

Good Luck
Dave

[kornerking]

Makes ya feel good to fess up and still have them go for it? Wtg Dave

[DavidC]

Some of the main counter top;

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1962.jpg

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1961.jpg

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_1960.jpg

Good Luck
Dave

[DavidC]

And the island top;

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_2001.jpg

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_2004.jpg

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_2005.jpg

That island top calculates to about 520 lbs. just about the limit for the three of us on a hot, humid afternoon. 2 hrs. from the truck to the cabinets. So relieved to see a perfect fit.

The Mrs. came home after it was installed and touched up. Judging from her face I think she is regretting the color. Her daughter loves it though, maybe that will help.

Left to go are the back splashes and shelf top behind the sink. This will be the second make for the back splashes. I get a lot of breakage on the smaller, thinner pieces. The back splash behind the sink has two outlets to work around. The first form I used wood inserts for them and they swelled causing cracks at all four corners on both of them. This time I used foam board inserts.

Good Luck
Dave

[kornerking]

Looking good David.

[DavidC]

The final pieces are in at last. Turned out that I had to remake the back splash pieces. The foam inserts worked much better for the outlet holes on the main back splash and I learned not to drop the smaller thinner pieces. :>)

My son Jon built the oak shelving that supports the upper shelf.

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_2078.jpg

It was quite a relief to see all the pieces fit together as planned thanks to the templates.

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_2081.jpg

This has been a most enjoyable project, frustrations and all.

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss156/CookContractingllc/February%20Counter%20Top/IMG_2093.jpg

And there is another project under contract to be started in July. Only four pieces and they are all straight runs. Piece of cake.

Good Luck
Dave

[Winchester]

looks good but don't like the green :o

I think the gray countertop looks better than white anyway, are you sure it wasn't a purposeful mistake? i think white would look cheap with that colour cabinets

price-wise how does it compare to granite?

[Leo G]

Looks great.

Make any money?

[DavidC]

The price will vary in different areas and even among fabricators. For us the cost is substantially higher than the big box granite yet lower than the local granite shop per square foot.

Many variables come into play. Some dyes can be purchased for $5/lb. but that green is $15, blues are more expensive yet as are the more vibrant shades of most colors. Bagged sand around $5/40 lb. compares to local sand I can load on the pick up for $15. (about a half ton) The list goes on.

That green would not be my first choice either, but it does grow on you as you work it. I ended up using the same color on a piece for the home show and it was very popular with the crowd. My wife is going to get her's this summer and she is leaning towards charcoal.

I am also planning an experiment using rock dust for sand and crushed stone aggregate for a limestone look. There is a quarry a mile from my house.

Thanks to everyone for the questions and interest.

Good Luck
Dave

[DavidC]

Looks great.

Make any money?

Bastid.

It didn't cost me too much:>)

Good Luck
Dave

[Leo G]

Make e a donation to the skool of hard knocks.

Well, they look great. Hopefully you can make the next set at cost :laugh3: And maybe the next set after that you will make a buck or thousand.

[DavidC]

Yep, the learning curve can be a wild ride with indeterminate fees.

The good news is the work is enjoyable.

Good Luck
Dave

[bert0168]

Great job :2thumbsup: those look FANTASTIC!!

Now that I've seen your tops, I'm torn between concrete and soapstone with a Franklin edge when I do my kitchen.

[Leo G]

Absolutely concrete...David is your man.

[DavidC]

Sent me on a seach for a franklin edge. Pretty interesting look.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg021957055271.html

It's a hard choice, I'd go with concrete.

Good Luck
Dave

[Winchester]

a couple questions big D

can you put hot pots on the concrete like you can with granite? will it stain? do you need to re-seal it every so often?

thanks

[Winchester]

and one more question, can you work in Vancouver? :laugh4:

[DavidC]

a couple questions big D

can you put hot pots on the concrete like you can with granite?

The concrete itself will handle a hot pot just fine. The finish may not depending on what it is. It might scorch a waxed finish for example (easily repaired) while a quality topical can take it. Trivets or hot pads are recommended, but in most cases it would be fine.

will it stain?

Raw concrete is porous and will absorb most liquids. Again, the answer depends on the finish used. Acidic liquids (orange & tomato juices, etc.) are the biggest concern because they can eat through many finishes. Spill it, wipe it is the recommendation even though most commonly used finishes will resist staining for most things.

do you need to re-seal it every so often?
thanks

A beautiful look can be achieved with a penetrating sealer and wax polish, and needs to be maintained regularly. Some topicals need annual recoating just as with granite sealers. Others are more durable and require less.


Other common questions;

Will it crack? Yes. It is concrete so it's not if but when. With properly installed reinforcement however the cracks are minimized and won't open when they do occur.

Will it chip? Very possible under the right conditions. If little Billy has a love of hammers keep him out of the kitchen.

All of these questions should be addressed during the sales process. You should only purchase concrete counter tops if you love, want and understand them. To many, part of the beauty is that they will age in place and develop their own character over time.

It would be very difficult to make two counters identical, impossible to duplicate the effects of time and use if you could. They are one product that is truly unique.

Good Luck
Dave

[DavidC]

and one more question, can you work in Vancouver? :laugh4:

Can you cover travel and accommodation costs? I'm game.

Good Luck
Dave

[bosshog]

it is possible to get away with using a high power back massage unit for the vibrator. It must be the high power type like they use in a chiropractor office. Worked for me. :smash:

[DavidC]

Welcome to RC bosshog. Stop by the intro section and tell us a little about yourself. We have some of the finest intro threads on the planet.

Are you doing concrete counter tops also?

I probably mentioned it already somewhere in this thread, but I use a reciprocating saw with a scraper blade for vibration. I just run it around the perimeter of the form, the scrapper just gives it a bit of extra weight/vibration. Thinking about welding a nut or two on it for more action.

A vibrating table would be nice and probably the way I'll go eventually.

Good Luck
Dave

[naptownCr]

Have you looked into the vibrators for ICF's I think they are relatively inexpensive.

[DavidC]

Have you looked into the vibrators for ICF's I think they are relatively inexpensive.

I think you are referring to what I call pencil vibrators. If so, then yes I've looked into them and can say that they are used by some fabricators. I decided against them because I normally have something in the form that I don't want to move.

You might be surprised at the results with the recip saw. I'll have to try to remember to video the next one.

Bosshog's HD vibrator probably works quite well also. Might be trouble though if the Mrs. finds out it's in the shop. :>)

Good Luck
Dave

[naptownCr]

They make one that you apply to the outside of the forms.

[WarriorWithWood]

Thinking about welding a nut or two on it for more action.

There's a million dollar idea. I know a lot of carpenters that use a sawzall for form vibrating. They don't do it frequent enough to buy a dedicated vibrator. Create a "blade" with a lead weight that stays behind the foot. I'd buy one.

[naptownCr]

How's that long stroke working out?
I have used a rotary hammer set to hammer only and seems to work pretty well.

[WarriorWithWood]

I had shorten it, the 1 1/4" stroke kept slipping off.:grin:

[kornerking]

Resemble that remark.:cheers:

[naptownCr]

Ok minds out of the gutter guys.
Although I would not admit that a short stroke is a problem.:grin:

[bconley]

Here ya go, http://vibe-all.com/

[naptownCr]

Here ya go, http://vibe-all.com/

I wonder how that would work on my dress shirts if I heated it up?