Gatling Gun Project

[Leo G]

It isn't my project, but I get to make the wheels. He made a brass hub for it on a metal lathe and milled 16 walnut segments up on a CNC machine, 8 per wheel. He also made the spoke blanks. They had a 3/4" radius milled on one end and centers milled on beth ends for a wood lathe.

I sent the spokes out to my wood turner before I went on vacation and picked them up after I got back.

Here are 8 segments shown in the formation of an octagon soon to be circle.
http://fototime.com/2BB6632EC5F80A8/orig.jpg

Here are 2 segments, doweled, you can see the outside line for the OD of the rim.
http://fototime.com/68EB5443167E193/orig.jpg

Here is the Octagon with the circle cut out before gluing up the rim.
http://fototime.com/69CBA4CD274939D/orig.jpg

Here it is clamped up. I use a strap clamp for rounds.
http://fototime.com/363539531D60E33/orig.jpg

That's all I have for now. This project is on a 'as I have time for it' basis.

[Silvertree]

At what angle are the dowels drilled, how were able to get accurate drilling?

[neolitic]

Gonna be some purty wheels. http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/neoliticman/smiliethumbsup.gif

[Leo G]

The dowels are 3/8" x 3", they are drilled 90º to the ends. I use a stanley #59 dowel jig.

[Silvertree]

Right, I had to make one of those out of 2 by 4 for a carpentry position once.
I just nailed it together. The guy hiring figured if I knew how to use a framing square to make an octagon I could probably be trained for better things:rolleyes3:

[Leo G]

Got a few more pics to show. I did some more jig making and got the rims round on the inside and outside.

Here are the spokes as I got them from my turner. I still need to
cut an 11 1/4º angle on two sides where the rounded end is. That
way when they meet at the hub they will be touching all around as
a solid unit. I also need to make the rounded section towards the end
of the spoke more of an oval. So the thinner section is round and as it
progresses out to the rim it gets more oval shaped. I'll make some flat cuts
and then sand them oval.
http://fototime.com/485607BC9EE41CD/orig.jpg

Here is the setup for smoothing out the inside diameter of the rim. It
is a flush cut drum sander, has a bearing on the bottom just like a flush cut router bit does.
This picture was taken after the operation was completed.
I did it when the OD was still an octagon. I had room to drive a couple of
screws through the rim into the circle jig below it.
http://fototime.com/876EBD9F3B3D2D4/orig.jpg

Here is a close up of the flush sanding drum.
http://fototime.com/E808FF51AEEC372/orig.jpg

Here is the jig I made for the OD of the rim. It is two MDF circles stacked on top of each other.
The larger bottom circle is just a platform for the rim. The smaller one is stacked on top of the
larger one and fits snugly within the ID of the rim. A few triangular hold downs and a handle for
me to spin the jig around. I had a 60 grit belt on the edge sander and I didn't even use the band
saw to cut down the octagon, I just sanded it off.
http://fototime.com/B008CD3CE889FD9/orig.jpg

[Leo G]

I am working on fitting the spokes and because it is a radius I am cutting the angles using a round. I used a 1 1/2" diameter base to push the radius of the spoke into and an 11.25 degree fence to put the spoke against. Only problem is the spokes have already been turned so I need to cut the second angle referenced from the first angle. I'll post the jig in a few minutes. Keep thinking Gus. You might get it right one of these times.:w00t:


I make this cut first, you have to remember the spoke is turned
http://fototime.com/54357FC664AB277/orig.jpg
and I can only reference off of a small portion of straight wood.
http://fototime.com/762E4D8C58971D6/orig.jpg

And then I move the pc over and make this cut, the angle isn't the hard part. It is getting the width of the pcs correct so I get a 1 1/2" diameter hole in the inside. .005" doesn't seem to be accurate enough. That is as close as I can get with the digital equipment I have +/-.002. If I move the fence .005" it ends up doubling it because I need to cut it on bothe sides. This is getting annoying. Going on try #5. I had it close and moved .005" and now it is too small.
http://fototime.com/016B466E19F187D/orig.jpg

[Leo G]

Registering it by the hole on the rim side was my first idea. But because of the irregular shape and the fact that these are turned by hand makes them unreliable for size. Plus getting it off the dowel, in my version of the jig, could have been problematic. One of the reasons I like to have it registered off of the 1st cut is that the inner dimension will remain the same if the part width changes. I try to keep one reference face whenever I do anything. Keeping the round cutout centered is not a great concern because it is going to be hidden by the hub anyway.

Try 6 was it. I got it dialed in. It could be a RCH tighter, but I can't adjust my fence reliably to those tolerances. I would think it is less than .001" and likely 5/10000" The wood will swell that much and I bet I am going to have interference when I put glue in there. Glue usually takes up 2-3 thousandths, so I think I am there.

I snuck a test spoke in there. But here is what the jig does for me:
http://fototime.com/620A4E300BF28A2/orig.jpg

[Leo G]

It's a wheel !!! I got it. I put a layer of blue tape on one side of the jig and took a slice off of all 16 spokes (per wheel). And it was still a little to tight. So I added another layer of blue tape and took a slice off of 8 of them and then it was still a bit tight. I took out a spoke at a time and shaved them and after 3 extra shavings it dropped into place. The second wheel dropped into place after just doing the 8 spokes. So they are slightly different from each other.

Still have more to go. I need to sand the spokes so the round part tapers to an oval as it goes out to the rim. Then drill the holes in the rim for the dowels. Then put the hub on and drill the holes for the through bolts and then put on a clearcoat. But the spoke fitting was the tricky part. And it is done!!

http://fototime.com/73439D09A33C36E/orig.jpg

http://fototime.com/D8B25E944669CFE/orig.jpg

No glue, just held together by tight tolerances.
http://fototime.com/F2460FD22A19FA8/orig.jpg

[naptownCr]

Cool project
You definately had the left brain working on that one

[Silvertree]

:2thumbsup: I like, good idea using the blue tape for a guide.

[neolitic]

:2thumbsup: I like, good idea using the blue tape for a guide.

I think he was using it as shim stock.

[CreteCoater]

Nice Work!

[Leo G]

:2thumbsup: I like, good idea using the blue tape for a guide.

I think he was using it as shim stock.

Yes, I was using it as shim stock.

The blue tape was put here:
http://fototime.com/AAE8C6DA3F55E6D/orig.jpg

[Silvertree]

I thought you were using it as a cutting guide, kind of like putting a piece of tape on one side and running the piece through the cutter. Whatever you used to remove stock.

Fussy work either way and a nice looking wheel.

I never got into woodworking, I do like getting remodels done though.
Oh hell, so the tape was being used until you glued, then removed and the glue filled the space the tape had? I might as well understand it if I can, RC is to make me smarter.

[neolitic]

I thought you were using it as a cutting guide, kind of like putting a piece of tape on one side and running the piece through the cutter. Whatever you used to remove stock.

Fussy work either way and a nice looking wheel.

I never got into woodworking, I do like getting remodels done though.
Oh hell, so the tape was being used until you glued, then removed and the glue filled the space the tape had? I might as well understand it if I can, RC is to make me smarter.

Rather than move the left side of
the jig 1000th inch closer to the blade
he used the tape to move the work piece
closer.
Thereby removing @ 1000th more wood
for each layer of tape.

I'm sure he mic'ed the tape first. :laugh4:

[Leo G]

Blue tape runs around 4-5 thousandths. Green tape around 3-4, scotch tape around 2-4.

I mic'ed it a long time ago, I use it to adjust jigs all the time. Great stuff, many used.

[Bodger]

Nice work Leo.

Wheelwrights, coopers and chairmakers all salute you.

[Leo G]

Few more pics with a real camera instead of my crappy cell phone:


Center of wheel - Spoke intersection:
http://fototime.com/A07A1FC399ACCB3/orig.jpg

I put a 8" radius on the end of the spoke so it would fit without a gap:
http://fototime.com/D041244C7E86847/orig.jpg

Picture of the wheel w/a birch background:
http://fototime.com/5D6995D53DF955C/orig.jpg

The brass hub that will go into the center of the wheel, all custom milled, even the nuts and bolts were milled.
http://fototime.com/8F30161B7D47D38/orig.jpg

[Leo G]

I have some more pics. The work is almost complete. I have only to sand a few things, put the finish on and drill the hub holes.

Today I worked on drilling the spoke indexing dowel holes and ovaling the lengths of the spokes.
I also put the hub on, which was a challenge in itself. But as usual, there is a trick to
everything and I figured it out.

Here is the rim. My client gave me a full scale drawing of the octagon with
the circles drawn in. It had an x and y axis line. I had to draw the 8 intersecting lines to
get the 16 holes for the dowels.
http://fototime.com/0CEAB86A8BE6FA9/orig.jpg

Here is a close up showing how the holes line up with my centerlines.
The photo was enhanced because of shadows.
http://fototime.com/F4A2EEFA4CE2135/orig.jpg

Here is my Stanley #59 doweling jig that I used to drill the 17/64" holes
for the 1/4" dowels.
http://fototime.com/A5A04EE158CAF3C/orig.jpg

This is the jig I made to start the ovaling process. The dowel was .550" in diameter and I needed
to get the skinny side to .410" I routed a slot in some birch that was .480" deep and made a shim
that was .070 thick. I clamped the spoke with my Jorgenson clamp and used my sander with 100
grit paper. I sanded it flush with the birch. Then I removed the spoke, put the shim in the end
of the jig and clamped the spoke back in with the sanded side down. Then I sanded flush to the
birch again. Result .410" thick, usually within about .003". I am just as surprised as you.
http://fototime.com/A78C256FB9D80B1/orig.jpg

[Leo G]

After the jig I needed to do some hand shaping. And by hand shaping I mean
with an electric RO sander. This is how I got rid of the flats and made them
more ovalish. Here is a crappy picture from my camera phone.
http://fototime.com/9832FEE613EE790/orig.jpg

[WarnerConstInc.]

'bout time slacker!!!

I like the hub.

[Leo G]

Hey, this is an "as I have time for it job". I was doing more important stuff. Like bidding on two jobs, one around $11K and the other around $20-$30K.

Priorities my boy. Priorities.

BTW, I got the $11K job.

[Leo G]

I got some finish on it today:

http://fototime.com/D1470184573DA20/orig.jpg

[neolitic]

Ought be furniture.

[Leo G]

I showed it around and no one guessed it was a wheel. They all thought it was a steering wheel for a large ship. Makes sense. But when I told them it was going to be wheels for a Gatling gun, they all said Coooooool....

I talked with the guy about the red stuff on the brass hub, I think he called it dykem (http://ami.thomasnet.com/viewitems/dykem-layout-staining-fluid/dykem-layout-staining-fluid-2?&forward=1), used for aiding in the scribing of lines for layout. I asked if he wanted it removed, he said yes. But then I asked him about getting pictures of the final project. He said I would be able to take pictures of "Our" project. He offered to bring the finished unit to me so I could take pictures. I told him "No, no, no... I can bring the camera up to you. He agreed that would be good too.

[Eieio]

Everything seems to be off 1/2" to the right can you re-spoke it?

[Leo G]

I didn't notice that until I was looking at the picture.:dizzy2: It is slightly exaggerated by the angle of the shot but does look off center. This is because of the turnings. They were done by hand and some of the hub side spokes are longer because of the start point of the turning. The hub is dead center in the wheel. I did it that way because I didn't want to have the unevenness of the spokes to show. See post #19, picture 1 and you will see what I am referring to. But I think that I would like the unevenness instead of the off center look. Nothing is set in stone yet. After I drill the holes for the hub it is set in stone. So I can change it if I need to.

[WarriorWithWood]

Threw you a couple of thanks for posting a VERY interesting project. Nice work Leo.:2thumbsup:

[Leo G]

Everything seems to be off 1/2" to the right can you re-spoke it?

Well, I had two evils to choose from. Having the outlines of the spokes line up and make the hub look off center or have the spokes not line up as well and have the hub look centered. I had to pick the latter. So I moved the spokes around and now the hub looks centered. I drilled the holes for the bolts in one wheel, pretty easy. I think I will wait until the client comes by to pick them up in case he wants to see how it is made. One the holes are drilled I think it would be pretty hard to get everything lined back up and get the hub back on without some redrilling. I made a large platform for the wheel to rest on and a drilling platform that would rest directly under the hub. I lined up the drill bit with one of the hub holes and brought the drill bit into it. Raised the bit and turned on the drill. Then drilled the hole. I put a bolt into the hole to make sure there was no chance of it moving. Did a second hole and put in a second bolt. The I drilled the 6 remaining holes.

It was another thing to put all the bolts in and get the backside of the hub on. Without the bolts it is pretty easy. But the bolts stiffened the whole thing up and I had to force the back hub on. But I got it in. Looks nice, but I have no pics to show you. :rolleyes3:

[Eieio]

No pics and its all hear sey :grin::rolleyes3:

[Leo G]

Blah blah blah....you know I'm good for it.

[Leo G]

I have some final pictures of the wheels. The first pic is one wheel with the hub completed. All the holes drilled and bolts and nuts inserted. I ended up doing the holes on the drill press. Using the front hub as a guide, the back hub was removed and a blow out board was underneath to prevent the wood from splintering when the drill bit exited.

http://fototime.com/DF7925A7503967E/orig.jpg

The second pic is inside the shop taken with a flash. The natural light one shows how the wood is closer in shade to each other and the flash shows the nice character of the wood. In real life you see both at the same time. I just couldn't get one photo to show both.

http://fototime.com/9BBC7EE93609241/orig.jpg

[Leo G]

I Gave up the 2 walnut wheels today. He offered up some more info, not a lot though. He is going to get the brass hubs gold plated. So I had to show him how to get the hubs off the wheel and back on. I really hope he can do this and get everything align back up so they go on. It was a very tight fit with very close tolerances. When I went to put it on I even had a tough time, and I know exactly how to do it. He doesn't know the time scale of completion. Most of the work is being done the way he had it done with me. Take your time, and do it between projects and give me a nice price. He also said he will be getting a Plexiglas box made for it to protect it. He says he already has made a scale cannon. It just goes into a room in his house.

[BuiltByMAC]

That project is cool as hell, Leo. Kudos to you, those wheels are saw-weeeet!

Mac

[Eieio]

Leo did you get final Pics????

[Leo G]

Still giving me a hard time Rory?

Those pictures are likely months out. He needs to build everything and then get it gold plated. So time and money are what we are waiting on. Hopefully the guy doesn't perish befor the job is done. He is older and his medical condition is not that great. When I get'm you'll have'm