View Full Version : Now that's a Face Frame
Leo G
July 14th, 2011, 08:38 PM
Finally started the physical work for the NYC kitchen. All the work previous was computer/paper work related. Felt good to get into the shop again. The kitchen is to be made from soft maple.
The FFs are 1 1/8" thick. When the profile is put on it leaves a 13/16" flat for the door to line up with. The door will be inset and recessed behind the profile. Probably the most complicated FF setup I ever did.
http://fototime.com/345F715EB321E5A/orig.jpg
The FFs are cope and stick. I will glue them in place and then drive the pocket screws so there will be no shift.
http://fototime.com/E6900DB2B550AE7/orig.jpg
http://fototime.com/7CDE2796CCFAA7F/orig.jpg
naptownCr
July 14th, 2011, 08:42 PM
I am utterly speechless
Leo G
July 14th, 2011, 08:47 PM
That is pretty unusual :laugh3:
OGStilts
July 14th, 2011, 08:48 PM
Wow, that is going to be sweet. Can't wait to see them.
Leo G
July 14th, 2011, 08:50 PM
Gonna look a lot like this. This is the photo I am copying the design from.
http://fototime.com/15D891BF0757813/orig.jpg
Bodger
July 14th, 2011, 09:06 PM
Gonna look a lot like this. This is the photo I am copying the design from.
http://fototime.com/15D891BF0757813/orig.jpg
Yours look better though.
Leo G
July 14th, 2011, 09:08 PM
My cabinets will. But I am not doing the install. I have a feeling it will be installed by someone not qualified to install a kitchen of my quality. I mentioned scribing and was met with blank stares.
Absolute Basements
July 14th, 2011, 09:08 PM
You better be charging what work of this level of quality is worth.
No starving artist or doing it for the pics stuff.
I'm not easily impressed, and I'm impressed.
Leo G
July 14th, 2011, 09:10 PM
Well, since I am just making and delivering the kitchen they get a deal on no install cost from me.
I figure it is an $8K kitchen if it was a normal built. I am just about getting double.
Bodger
July 14th, 2011, 09:10 PM
My cabinets will. But I am not doing the install. I have a feeling it will be installed by someone not qualified to install a kitchen of my quality. I mentioned scribing and was met with blank stares.
Uh-oh. ................
Leo G
July 14th, 2011, 09:11 PM
He asked me to hang around so that I could scribe the cabinets for them. Uhhh, like that is called installing the cabinets. No thanks.
Eieio
July 14th, 2011, 09:11 PM
That is a pretty sweet frame.. any fillers?
Absolute Basements
July 14th, 2011, 09:12 PM
Uh-oh. ................
+1 on the Uh oh.
Leo G
July 14th, 2011, 09:12 PM
That is a pretty sweet frame.. any fillers?
Fillers, in a custom kitchen. You insult me sir.
Leo G
July 14th, 2011, 09:14 PM
+1 on the Uh oh.
+2 on the Uh oh:rolleyes3:
kevjob
July 14th, 2011, 09:26 PM
Who is doing the install? SO he forks over 16k for custom cabinets and is going with someone who does know what scribing means?
+3 on uh oh and oh sh*t....:smash:
ChrWright
July 14th, 2011, 09:29 PM
Make sure you send lots of color matching caulk... :smash:
Leo G
July 14th, 2011, 09:32 PM
Not my problem. No caulk provided. No crayons either. That is the installers dealeo
Spinter said he would install it for a measly $10K
framer55
July 14th, 2011, 10:22 PM
Not my problem. No caulk provided. No crayons either. That is the installers dealeo
Spinter said he would install it for a measly $10K
That might be cheap in some parts of the City....
WarriorWithWood
July 14th, 2011, 10:41 PM
Nice, I'm looking forward to the close up final shots.:2thumbsup:
Absolute Basements
July 15th, 2011, 07:50 AM
Leo,
I've got an honest question...
When I've done inset doors/drawer fronts, even using Blum Tandem slides, there is enough side to side wiggle that its possible the drawer hits either side of the FF on closing unless I really open the margins up.
How do you avoid this?
Teach me O lazy one.
Snobnd
July 15th, 2011, 08:24 AM
Leo has a hard time giving out his tricks ( thats why I have installed secret cameras in his shop) Shhh dont tell him. :grin:
RCP
July 15th, 2011, 08:32 AM
Love your project threads Leo, amazing stuff!:2thumbsup:
ChrWright
July 15th, 2011, 08:44 AM
How big is the kitchen overall?
Any large pieces with shared stiles (like in the photo)?
That's a very cool detail. I don't think I've seen a kitchen up close with that type of FF.
Leo G
July 15th, 2011, 11:12 AM
124" wide x 161" long. The cabs look just how you see them. There are a total of 6 cabinets with 19 doors (18 operable) and 7 drawer fronts (5 operable)
Leo G
July 15th, 2011, 11:18 AM
Leo,
I've got an honest question...
When I've done inset doors/drawer fronts, even using Blum Tandem slides, there is enough side to side wiggle that its possible the drawer hits either side of the FF on closing unless I really open the margins up.
How do you avoid this?
Teach me O great one.
I don't know what you mean because I don't have that problem. The right tandem drawer slide is fixed and the left one has 2 mm side to side play (could be the other way around). I set my margins at 5/64" which is just under 2mm. I mount the drawer and then drill my holes to mount the front. I use shims to space the drawer out and then screw it down tight. Usually I use 4 mounting holes. I only set the 2 bottom ones and do a test fit. If the margins line up then I put the other 2 screws in. If not I bat it around until it does and then put the other two screws in.
Why don't you explain to me how you install the drawers and what sizes you are using. (1/2" sides, 5/8" sides, amount you deduct for the drawer, how far back from the front of the FF, are you using the adjustable PV locks etc)
And thanks for the new signature (yes, I did say that out loud)
Splinter
July 15th, 2011, 11:35 AM
Explain the Cope and Stick FF's.... You dont have a panel groove, so how do you "drive them together" before pocket screwing?
Oh, I know how to scribe a cabinet... $10K doesnt sound so bad, eh? :D
Leo G
July 15th, 2011, 12:22 PM
I am going to glue and clamp them. After the glue is dry I will drive the pocket screw so it doesn't misalign the pcs.
CCCo.
July 15th, 2011, 01:06 PM
Nice Work!
I'll be looking forward to the future pictures! :2thumbsup:
-
Leo G
July 16th, 2011, 10:27 AM
This is the biggest cabinet I am making. This is the one that will likely need to be carried up 15 flights of stairs.
This is the cabinet on the sink wall. The notch is where the sink goes in the countertop and at the end of the run will be a small panty cabinet. The upper will be 13" deep and the pantry will be 14" deep
It is sitting on an 8' long bench.
http://fototime.com/85D2681F2D0B4BA/orig.jpg
Snobnd
July 16th, 2011, 10:37 AM
Looking good Leo, keep up the progress!
Absolute Basements
July 16th, 2011, 10:45 AM
I don't know what you mean because I don't have that problem. The right tandem drawer slide is fixed and the left one has 2 mm side to side play (could be the other way around). I set my margins at 5/64" which is just under 2mm. I mount the drawer and then drill my holes to mount the front. I use shims to space the drawer out and then screw it down tight. Usually I use 4 mounting holes. I only set the 2 bottom ones and do a test fit. If the margins line up then I put the other 2 screws in. If not I bat it around until it does and then put the other two screws in.
Why don't you explain to me how you install the drawers and what sizes you are using. (1/2" sides, 5/8" sides, amount you deduct for the drawer, how far back from the front of the FF, are you using the adjustable PV locks etc)
And thanks for the new signature (yes, I did say that out loud)
I install the Blum tandem undermount slides with the soft close feature exactly at their instructions describe. I use 1/2" BB plywood sides.
When the drawers are closed they easily have 3/64" side to side "slop" in them
Maybe I need different slides.
Your welcome on the new sig.
I always suck up to my elders
when I need advice.
Bodger
July 16th, 2011, 11:22 AM
That might be cheap in some parts of the City....
$10K might just cover the cost of parking in Manhattan for two days.
Bodger
July 16th, 2011, 11:25 AM
This is the biggest cabinet I am making. This is the one that will likely need to be carried up 15 flights of stairs.
This is the cabinet on the sink wall. The notch is where the sink goes in the countertop and at the end of the run will be a small panty cabinet. The upper will be 13" deep and the pantry will be 14" deep
It is sitting on an 8' long bench.
http://fototime.com/85D2681F2D0B4BA/orig.jpg
Are you delivering to the curb, or into the kitchen? I once built a cabinet that had to go up a few flights of stairs in an apartment building, and despite my diligent measuring in advance, we barely made the turns.
WarriorWithWood
July 16th, 2011, 12:11 PM
I would find a break point so I could use the elevator.
Leo G
July 16th, 2011, 03:44 PM
The look of the cabinet will not permit a break. There would be a distinct line and I am the one that won't compromise on that. It is an upper and without the doors and shelves it will weigh in at about 70-80lbs, but it is 15 flights of stairs. Of course I am going to try to get it in the elevator and if I am able to do it, it will just squeak in.
kornerking
July 16th, 2011, 04:17 PM
No wonder u needed so much for that 4,000 kitchen.
15 flights geez.
Have you thought about a pulley system?
Leo G
July 16th, 2011, 04:22 PM
It is only a $4K kitchen if you do it with overlay doors and standard boxes.
None of these are close to standard. I guess the pantry is as close to a standard box as you can get...13 1/2"w x 14"d x 89 7/8" tall cabinet is standard, right?
kornerking
July 16th, 2011, 04:28 PM
Absolutely. Custom is when we go to 1/16ths.
kornerking
July 16th, 2011, 04:29 PM
What about the pulley system.
They couldn't pay me enough to hike it up 15 stories.
Leo G
July 16th, 2011, 05:25 PM
I will not be hiking it up 15 flights. I have minions that will be doing that for me. I drive the truck.
Leo G
August 2nd, 2011, 11:13 PM
Getting ready to start putting a finish on this puppy.
http://fototime.com/3B64C271AECD340/orig.jpg
http://fototime.com/B054EBBD0740830/orig.jpg
http://fototime.com/3701F317DD44B5F/orig.jpg
http://fototime.com/4162BD9E91F7A06/orig.jpg
Leo G
August 2nd, 2011, 11:14 PM
http://fototime.com/F21417295F74718/orig.jpg
http://fototime.com/16FE29036133003/orig.jpg
http://fototime.com/0F465BC6953864A/orig.jpg
http://fototime.com/B352A39CA13894E/orig.jpg
Leo G
August 2nd, 2011, 11:15 PM
http://fototime.com/0D7D4BDFE01D0E6/orig.jpg
http://fototime.com/6F3BB65086E8749/orig.jpg
kornerking
August 3rd, 2011, 06:21 AM
Leo, humans learned to walk upright a long time ago.
Get a chance build those carts higher -like 30"- so your not bending so much. It is much easier on the body going from table height to a 30 high cart as well as not needing to bend over while spraying. Your body will thank you when you turn 50.
Leo G
August 3rd, 2011, 08:23 AM
Well Pete, I like my carts and they are staying at that height. I have some parts carts that are tablesaw height and they have there specific uses also. All my tables are 28 1/2" high for assembly. I find that is a good compromise for most projects. Cabinets and flat stuff, I need to be able to reach the top of a cabinet while it is on the table and when I need to work on the very tops of the cabinets (usually installing stretchers) I can put them on the carts.
Sure there is some bending, but I'm not old like you and this is the only exercise I get.
kornerking
August 3rd, 2011, 09:20 AM
Ya can lead a horse to water.........
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